Barrycdog
Major
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2013
- Location
- Buford, Georgia
CONFEDERATE "COLUMBUS DEPOT" JACKETS
The Material Evidence
Geoffrey R. Walden
One of Three PART I - THE BASIC PATTERN
One of the most popular jackets being worn by hobbyists portraying western Confederate troops today is a reproduction based on an original style possibly produced by the Confederate quartermaster depot in Columbus, Georgia. Judging from the surviving originals and a number of period images that appear to show this style, it must have seen widespread issue during the war.
Although this type has been discussed in a number of publications recently, it has not been completely described. This article will do that, cataloging the six original jackets that have seen wide publication, plus two others that are relatively unknown, and examining period photos and other information. Hopefully, this level of detail will be useful to units and individuals in choosing reproductions of this style, and in dispelling some of the myths, rumors, and misinformation concerning these jackets that are cropping up in the hobby (particularly in reproductions).
The "Columbus Depot" jacket was first identified in published work by Les Jensen, former curator of collections at the Museum of the Confederacy, and currently a historian at the U.S. Army Center for Military History (Leslie D. Jensen, "A Survey of Confederate Central Government Quartermaster Issue Jackets, Part I [actually Part II], Military Collector and Historian, Vol. XLI, No. 4 (Winter 1989), pp. 162-171; click here for an online version of this article; here for the previous article (Richmond Depot). I wish to emphasize right at the beginning that there is no period evidence (at least it hasn't been found or published yet) that definitely ties this style of jacket to the Columbus Depot, and Jensen himself didn't say there was. Jensen felt this style may have been produced at that facility, based on the apparent widespread issue of this style, and that depot's apparent ability to support such an issue. In fact, this jacket may have actually been produced at more than one facility, not necessarily in Georgia (see final discussion and notes). However, the name "Columbus Depot" has stuck. In fact, no other name tried since ("Army of Tennessee jacket," "Georgia jacket," "Western jacket," &c.) seems any more appropriate to this jacket.
The basic styling of this jacket is well known. The surviving originals were all made on a pattern of 6-piece bodies, with 1-piece rather full sleeves tapering to the cuffs. The body pieces curve into a short rounded "tail" in the center of the back on most of the jackets. All are made of a wool-cotton jean cloth (a woolen weft on a cotton warp, apparently unbleached or brown in some of the jackets), woven to a 1/2 twill. (In other words, the loom was filled with a foundation (warp) of the cotton threads, then the wool threads were woven into these, passing over two and under one of the cotton threads; the jean twill effect comes from alternating the cotton warp thread that shows through on the finished side.) Note - The Jenkins Jacket (below) appears to be made of a worsted material, not jean.
The jackets have collars and straight cuff trim about 2-1/2 inches wide of a medium or indigo blue kersey weave wool (not jean). The linings were made from a white or unbleached cotton tabby weave osnaburg. (A tabby weave is a simple "square" pattern of one thread under, one over, as opposed to the twill pattern of jean or kersey.) Stitching was done by hand, including buttonholes and top-stitching (except in the two examples noted), and the jacket bodies have a line of top-stitching running around all outside edges, about 1/4-inch from the edge. Top-stitching on the collars and cuff trim varies.
Jensen identified two distinct styles of the basic pattern: a "Type I," with interior pockets in the lining, and a "Type II," with one external pocket, set into the body of the jacket, with a jean facing piece along the opening. Jensen felt that the "Type II" may have been produced later than the "Type I." There are other differences that seem to fall in with this typology, but in fact, these may not indicate relative dating at all, but may instead support a theory that these jackets were produced by more than one facility. In addition, there are two original jackets that have both external and interior pockets, making this typology possibly an unnecessary modern imposition onto the historical record.
There has been considerable controversy over the original color of these jackets. Jensen referred to them as "butternut" (an unfortunate word choice; he also said they were probably originally gray), and a number of other writers have taken this as fact, supported by the jackets' appearance today. However, a close examination of the originals indicates that at least five of the eight were originally gray. To be sure, the color was a light gray of a "warm" hue (as opposed to "cool" gray hues such as "cadet gray"), and accumulated dust and dirt (not to mention their age) have combined to give most of the jackets a tannish cast today. But a grayish hue can often still be seen through moth holes in the trim and in seams.
The answer to this debate may depend on personal definitions of "butternut." If one uses this term to describe any uniform color that is dusty brown or tan, even if this hue comes from dust and dirt, then these jackets could be called "butternut" (apparently, this would fit the most common use of the term among the Federals). However, if by "butternut" one means the traditional Confederate color that was purposely brown, these jackets do not fit into this category, as they were normally produced from wool that was purposely dyed gray. For what it's worth, the troops of the Kentucky "Orphan" Brigade, who wore three of the original jackets described in this article, held the term "butternut" in contempt, and even looked down on troops from other states who wore brown clothing. They, apparently, would not have described these jackets as "butternut" (Ed Porter Thompson, History of the First Kentucky Brigade (Cincinnati: Caxton Publishing House, 1868), p. 491, and History of the Orphan Brigade (Louisville: L.N. Thompson, 1898), p. 203; William C. Davis, ed., Diary of a Confederate Soldier [John Jackman, 9th Ky. Inf.] (Columbia, SC: University of South Carolina Press, 1990), p. 31; Albert D. Kirwan, ed., Johnny Green of the Orphan Brigade (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 1956), pp. 106-107).
The jean material in the originals varies considerably in hue and texture, and it is difficult to say how much this may be due to age. Most of the jackets have woolen threads that are thicker and more regularly spun, and without the brown or black inclusions, than in reproductions seen today. The hue varies from a very light, clear gray to a medium brownish-gray. Two of the originals appear to have been woven on an unbleached or light brown warp, giving the brownish cast seen today. One example is made of a very light color, regular weave jean, much like the County Cloth "oatmeal" #3 jean of about 1992. This jacket may have been made from "drab" (undyed) wool fibers (Fred Adolphus, "Drab: The Forgotten Confederate Color," Confederate Veteran, September-October 1992, pp. 36-41).
The original jackets differ in various characteristics such as body length and cut, collar shape, number and type of buttons, pockets, and stitching details. These will be covered in the description of each surviving jacket below. These differences serve as a very good illustration of the common manufacturing method known as "piecing out." In this method, used by large volume clothing makers both North and South, the basic garment was cut out to a specific pattern, then these pieces were put together into "kits" also containing trim pieces and buttons, and perhaps even thread. These "kits" were then handed out to local seamstresses who had been hired to do the assembly work in their homes. This method resulted in jackets of the same basic style, but with various small differences in stitching, buttons, pockets, etc. These differences also likely support the theory that these jackets were made by more than one facility.
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The Material Evidence
Geoffrey R. Walden
One of Three PART I - THE BASIC PATTERN
One of the most popular jackets being worn by hobbyists portraying western Confederate troops today is a reproduction based on an original style possibly produced by the Confederate quartermaster depot in Columbus, Georgia. Judging from the surviving originals and a number of period images that appear to show this style, it must have seen widespread issue during the war.
Although this type has been discussed in a number of publications recently, it has not been completely described. This article will do that, cataloging the six original jackets that have seen wide publication, plus two others that are relatively unknown, and examining period photos and other information. Hopefully, this level of detail will be useful to units and individuals in choosing reproductions of this style, and in dispelling some of the myths, rumors, and misinformation concerning these jackets that are cropping up in the hobby (particularly in reproductions).
The "Columbus Depot" jacket was first identified in published work by Les Jensen, former curator of collections at the Museum of the Confederacy, and currently a historian at the U.S. Army Center for Military History (Leslie D. Jensen, "A Survey of Confederate Central Government Quartermaster Issue Jackets, Part I [actually Part II], Military Collector and Historian, Vol. XLI, No. 4 (Winter 1989), pp. 162-171; click here for an online version of this article; here for the previous article (Richmond Depot). I wish to emphasize right at the beginning that there is no period evidence (at least it hasn't been found or published yet) that definitely ties this style of jacket to the Columbus Depot, and Jensen himself didn't say there was. Jensen felt this style may have been produced at that facility, based on the apparent widespread issue of this style, and that depot's apparent ability to support such an issue. In fact, this jacket may have actually been produced at more than one facility, not necessarily in Georgia (see final discussion and notes). However, the name "Columbus Depot" has stuck. In fact, no other name tried since ("Army of Tennessee jacket," "Georgia jacket," "Western jacket," &c.) seems any more appropriate to this jacket.
The basic styling of this jacket is well known. The surviving originals were all made on a pattern of 6-piece bodies, with 1-piece rather full sleeves tapering to the cuffs. The body pieces curve into a short rounded "tail" in the center of the back on most of the jackets. All are made of a wool-cotton jean cloth (a woolen weft on a cotton warp, apparently unbleached or brown in some of the jackets), woven to a 1/2 twill. (In other words, the loom was filled with a foundation (warp) of the cotton threads, then the wool threads were woven into these, passing over two and under one of the cotton threads; the jean twill effect comes from alternating the cotton warp thread that shows through on the finished side.) Note - The Jenkins Jacket (below) appears to be made of a worsted material, not jean.
The jackets have collars and straight cuff trim about 2-1/2 inches wide of a medium or indigo blue kersey weave wool (not jean). The linings were made from a white or unbleached cotton tabby weave osnaburg. (A tabby weave is a simple "square" pattern of one thread under, one over, as opposed to the twill pattern of jean or kersey.) Stitching was done by hand, including buttonholes and top-stitching (except in the two examples noted), and the jacket bodies have a line of top-stitching running around all outside edges, about 1/4-inch from the edge. Top-stitching on the collars and cuff trim varies.
Jensen identified two distinct styles of the basic pattern: a "Type I," with interior pockets in the lining, and a "Type II," with one external pocket, set into the body of the jacket, with a jean facing piece along the opening. Jensen felt that the "Type II" may have been produced later than the "Type I." There are other differences that seem to fall in with this typology, but in fact, these may not indicate relative dating at all, but may instead support a theory that these jackets were produced by more than one facility. In addition, there are two original jackets that have both external and interior pockets, making this typology possibly an unnecessary modern imposition onto the historical record.
There has been considerable controversy over the original color of these jackets. Jensen referred to them as "butternut" (an unfortunate word choice; he also said they were probably originally gray), and a number of other writers have taken this as fact, supported by the jackets' appearance today. However, a close examination of the originals indicates that at least five of the eight were originally gray. To be sure, the color was a light gray of a "warm" hue (as opposed to "cool" gray hues such as "cadet gray"), and accumulated dust and dirt (not to mention their age) have combined to give most of the jackets a tannish cast today. But a grayish hue can often still be seen through moth holes in the trim and in seams.
The answer to this debate may depend on personal definitions of "butternut." If one uses this term to describe any uniform color that is dusty brown or tan, even if this hue comes from dust and dirt, then these jackets could be called "butternut" (apparently, this would fit the most common use of the term among the Federals). However, if by "butternut" one means the traditional Confederate color that was purposely brown, these jackets do not fit into this category, as they were normally produced from wool that was purposely dyed gray. For what it's worth, the troops of the Kentucky "Orphan" Brigade, who wore three of the original jackets described in this article, held the term "butternut" in contempt, and even looked down on troops from other states who wore brown clothing. They, apparently, would not have described these jackets as "butternut" (Ed Porter Thompson, History of the First Kentucky Brigade (Cincinnati: Caxton Publishing House, 1868), p. 491, and History of the Orphan Brigade (Louisville: L.N. Thompson, 1898), p. 203; William C. Davis, ed., Diary of a Confederate Soldier [John Jackman, 9th Ky. Inf.] (Columbia, SC: University of South Carolina Press, 1990), p. 31; Albert D. Kirwan, ed., Johnny Green of the Orphan Brigade (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 1956), pp. 106-107).
The jean material in the originals varies considerably in hue and texture, and it is difficult to say how much this may be due to age. Most of the jackets have woolen threads that are thicker and more regularly spun, and without the brown or black inclusions, than in reproductions seen today. The hue varies from a very light, clear gray to a medium brownish-gray. Two of the originals appear to have been woven on an unbleached or light brown warp, giving the brownish cast seen today. One example is made of a very light color, regular weave jean, much like the County Cloth "oatmeal" #3 jean of about 1992. This jacket may have been made from "drab" (undyed) wool fibers (Fred Adolphus, "Drab: The Forgotten Confederate Color," Confederate Veteran, September-October 1992, pp. 36-41).
The original jackets differ in various characteristics such as body length and cut, collar shape, number and type of buttons, pockets, and stitching details. These will be covered in the description of each surviving jacket below. These differences serve as a very good illustration of the common manufacturing method known as "piecing out." In this method, used by large volume clothing makers both North and South, the basic garment was cut out to a specific pattern, then these pieces were put together into "kits" also containing trim pieces and buttons, and perhaps even thread. These "kits" were then handed out to local seamstresses who had been hired to do the assembly work in their homes. This method resulted in jackets of the same basic style, but with various small differences in stitching, buttons, pockets, etc. These differences also likely support the theory that these jackets were made by more than one facility.
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Bringing the