Cartridge rolling dowel?

LogiComm

Cadet
Joined
Nov 10, 2020
I believe this is used to roll a cartridge. The end is larger than the rest of the dowel so I don't know how it was used. I can't find any pictures of this anywhere. If this is something else, can someone please let me know what it is and how it was used?

Thank you for any help with this.

v/r
Lloyd

20220815_195757.jpg
 
Thank you for the quick reply.

The dowel on the left came with a reenactors kit that I received when I purchased his 1853 Enfield (Davide Pedersoli). The two on the right came with an inherited Thompson Center Arms "Hawken". I have tried to find cartridge dowel tools designed like the ones in the picture and have not had any success. From all the videos and instructions I have found, the mandrel dowel is flat at the end. In "Handbook for Hythe for the School of musketry" I see that the Former has a large end and the mandrel is flat. The wooden dowels I have in the picture did not come with any other tools. Are these maybe formers without the mandrel?

Thank you

20220908_173925.jpg
 
Thank you for the quick reply.

The dowel on the left came with a reenactors kit that I received when I purchased his 1853 Enfield (Davide Pedersoli). The two on the right came with an inherited Thompson Center Arms "Hawken". I have tried to find cartridge dowel tools designed like the ones in the picture and have not had any success. From all the videos and instructions I have found, the mandrel dowel is flat at the end. In "Handbook for Hythe for the School of musketry" I see that the Former has a large end and the mandrel is flat. The wooden dowels I have in the picture did not come with any other tools. Are these maybe formers without the mandrel?

Thank you

View attachment 450862
The one on the right is narrower and is tapered, which suggests a revolver cartidge. These were made of thinner material (cigarette paper?) and inserted complete, bullet/ball to the front, and then secured using the integral rammer device (if fitted). The bullet was often a tight fit, for obvious reasons. They do seem a bit on the long side though.

A good site for revolver cartridges is: https://svartkrutt.net/articles/vis.php?id=51
 
Thank you for the quick reply.

The dowel on the left came with a reenactors kit that I received when I purchased his 1853 Enfield (Davide Pedersoli). The two on the right came with an inherited Thompson Center Arms "Hawken". I have tried to find cartridge dowel tools designed like the ones in the picture and have not had any success. From all the videos and instructions I have found, the mandrel dowel is flat at the end. In "Handbook for Hythe for the School of musketry" I see that the Former has a large end and the mandrel is flat. The wooden dowels I have in the picture did not come with any other tools. Are these maybe formers without the mandrel?

Thank you

View attachment 450862
It was suggested to get "The English Cartridge_ Pattern 1853 Rifle-Musket Ammunition by Gibbons, Brett". I purchased the book. Unfortunately, I could not find any of the wooden dowels in the picture. The search goes on.
 
It was suggested to get "The English Cartridge_ Pattern 1853 Rifle-Musket Ammunition by Gibbons, Brett". I purchased the book. Unfortunately, I could not find any of the wooden dowels in the picture. The search goes on.
Brett's site I pasted has photos of the dowels.
 





I have several cartridge forming dowells/ mandrells. The best one I've got is from Oyvind Flatnes, svartkrutt. He's a top Norwegian muzzle-loader and makes some arsenal-type Norwegian mandrells for the types of cartridges used: muzzle-loader and kammerlader. I've got a very nice .69 mandrel from Avalon Forge, which I use for a children's cartridge rolling demonstration in living history.
I've got several kits from Jefferson Arsenal, which include the forming rods or mandrels. The proprietor was even gracious enough to just sell me a rod after I carelessly broke it while making Enfield cartridges. You can make one, if you'd like, from a suitable length of dowell rod. Use paper and glue or paste to roll around the dowel until it is the precise thickness you are looking for. Let the glue set, and you are good to go. The issue is getting a concavity in one end, and a suitable rounded end on the opposite side.
 

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