1863 Springfield Half Cock Doesn't Work

[Karl S.]

Hi,
I picked up a nice rifle about a year ago. The problem is the half cock doesn't work. I'm mechanically inclined and wanted advice if I should take the lock apart or leave it to a gunsmith?

 

[hrobalabama]

I would take the lock apart. It is easy, just remove the two screws on the opposite side of the lock.
You can watch the bridle as it cocks. The first notch or catch will be the problem. It can be filed deeper, but you are better off contacting Lodgewood.com. They will have the spare part. If you remove the mainspring, take care. I use visegrip pliers. There is a special tool for removing the spring. Lodgewood has these. I have noticed this is a common problem with muskets.
If you pull the trigger hard enough, most of them will release the the hammer. I have an almost fine P-53 Enfield that does not catch on the half-cock.

 

[ole]

The major risk in doing it yourself is bunkling up the screw heads (which is what you will do with ordinary household screwdrivers). Sounds like a very small investment in gunsmithing screwdrivers is in order.

A household screwdriver is tapered to the tip and won't fit all the way to the bottom of a gun screw. Special gunsmithing bits are not tapered, so if you don't want to grind down yours to fit a screw, get a proper set of screwdriver bits.

 

[Karl S.]

Thanks guys, I'll post the results when I have time to get into it.

 

[mikekj]

If you have the ability, a photo of the inside of the lock would be nice.

 

[James N.]

By NO means attempt to take the lock apart without using a mainspring vise, or it's modern equivalent, vise grips. I think I tried that once, and mainsprings can still be VERY strong, even after a century-and-a-half!

 

[Jobe Holiday]

I will strongly advise against using a vise grip in place of a main spring vise! The worst case scenario is that you clamp the spring too tight and break it, remember it IS 150+ years old. With vise grips you guess where to set the jaws, but with a main spring vise you can slowly increase the pressure with the adjusting screw until you can just move the stirrup backwards out of the claw on the main spring. I have actually seen a main spring fly out of the jaws of vise grip pliers and hit a bystander!

Seemingly you will have to place the hammer on full cock in order to remove the lock from the stock. Again, be very careful because if the sear slips out of the notch in the tumbler you will stand a very good possibility of chipping a piece of wood out of the lock mortise.
J.

 

[Camp Randall Armory]

It may be as simple as the bridle screws are too tight and binding the sear.

 

[Jobe Holiday]

That would be the easiest fix!
J.

 

[Karl S.]

Thanks all for the valuable advice. Once I get it apart I'll just check the bridle screws. I'll try to get at it today.

 

[Karl S.]

Got it apart, judging by the screws it's been worked on before. Anything obvious in the photo? Thanks

 

[63springfield]

Tumbler is shot . The ear that half cock catches on is completely gone . See pic of one of my 63's . As already posted easy to find part and easy fix . By the number of mentions of it BE CAREFUL with the spring . Dave

 

[63springfield]

This shows it better . The back lower tooth is MIA on yours . Pic is from S&S's parts webpage and is original . Lodgewood and Dixie also show as having them . Seems to be a common part and I have been informed about the somewhat amazing interchangeability of some Springfield parts . Good Luck Dave

 

[Karl S.]

Thanks Dave,
I forgot about this thread until I just re-discovered it.

 

[Craig L Barry]

Well, it's usually the sear or the tumbler...or both. Less often it is over-tightened screws because (unlike reproductions) the original screws were threaded properly to seat without binding the lock. On reproductions, this is often not the case.

 

[Karl S.]

The tooth was completely gone on the tumbler. I also needed to replace the bridle as I broke the pin off. It all works great now. I got a original tumbler and a nice repro. bridel from Logewood Mfg. http://www.lodgewood.com/

I was thinking about shooting it a few times. Would it be safe??

 

[Craig L Barry]

That issue has not much to do with the lock and more to do with the condition of the barrel. I would suggest having a competent gunsmith examine the bore for soundness before firing any kind of live round, even blanks.

 

[Karl S.]

That issue has not much to do with the lock and more to do with the condition of the barrel. I would suggest having a competent gunsmith examine the bore for soundness before firing any kind of live round, even blanks.

Thanks Craig.

 

[18thmississippi]

Well since you already have your answer, I would like to add almost 80% of the problems in the lock revolve around your tumbler and sear. If you know it's your tumbler you can sometimes re cut the groove in it but you must be very careful not to cut to deep. Then it won't fire at all or if it does fire sooner or later you'll ware out the sear

 

[Karl S.]

Thanks 18th.
I'm a collector of military antiques (mainly Third Reich) and I only have original items. I want everything to be functional.
So I'm very happy my rifle functions as it should, even if I never shoot it that's OK.