Need some help removing discoloration from rust

Shrops

Cadet
Joined
Oct 25, 2021
I've posted about this elsewhere, but I figured I'd give it another shot. I took my '42 to an event, and it got rained on. I got the rust off, but it left behind this discoloration on all exposed parts. I've tried steel wool, copper wool, Hoppes, etc. and it will not come off. I don't want to try something that could potentially ruin it, so any advice on how to get it off is appreciated.

discoloration.jpg
 
Congratulations. The rain has successfully rust blued portions of your barrel. You might try Blue Wonder gun cleaner and No. 4 steel wool, which is non-aggressive, but that will probably still leave much of the discoloration. To bring the barrel back to arsenal bright you will have to be much more aggressive. Damage to the barrel from that ...? That's why the U.S. and Austrian manuals forbade polishing barrels/

On the Austrian side, the metal in newly manufactured Muster 1842 muskets and Muster 1854 rifle muskets came out of the arms factory with an arsenal bright finish; meaning that the iron had a silvery matt finish rather than being highly polished. By 1841 the k.k. Army had determined that obsessive polishing of weapons had a very damaging effect on them, and Baron von Augustin had forbidden the practice. Emphasis was instead on cleaning and maintenance. Light surface rust was neutralized by rubbing with a greasy rag. For heavier spots of rust, the soldier buffed out the spot using a slurry of fine brick dust and olive oil with a piece of soft wood as a lap. This meant that over time the exposed metal surfaces of Austrian weapons acquired a mottled appearance as the iron naturally rust blued through exposure to moisture.

But, officers and NCOs made their Civil War troops do it anyway. Polish was more important than functionality.

Regards,
Don Dixon
 
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As regards the modes in the period, prevent rust with some grease and elbow-grease (of course soldiers might practice the below daily). From the US Army regulations, 1861/63:

View attachment 479169

From the 1862 edition of the ordnance manual, USA:
View attachment 479170
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How in the world could someone "bend" a barrel by polishing it????/
 
I've posted about this elsewhere, but I figured I'd give it another shot. I took my '42 to an event, and it got rained on. I got the rust off, but it left behind this discoloration on all exposed parts. I've tried steel wool, copper wool, Hoppes, etc. and it will not come off. I don't want to try something that could potentially ruin it, so any advice on how to get it off is appreciated.

View attachment 479131
Don't polish this off - the rust spots are surface. Use a chemical - perhaps vinegar
 
How in the world could someone "bend" a barrel by polishing it????/
From Francis Prucha's "Army Life on the Western Frontier" the Army's inspector general, George Croghan, was indignant into the 1840s about the general state of the "bright" muskets in the hands of troops. He found most so overzealously burnished,* and often heavily polished, as to render them unfit for active service, and only for parade. Under this state of things, he felt muskets which should be serviceable 20 years, were bent and thinned to destruction after six or eight. "Burnish the musket ever so much," he stated in 1840, "and it will continue serviceable for a long time." [Prucha, 94-101.] But the army noted in the years leading up the restrictions of the regulations were often ignored:

"The soldier, fearing reprimand if he is upon parade without having his musket like a mirror, spares no pains and makes use of every means however improper for having it so. The piece is completely unstocked, and when the business of polishing is over, the ramrod is found bent, perhaps the barrel too, and the trigger guard so sprung as no longer to be brought to its proper place." [Prucha, 95.]
 
I haven't tried anything like this yet. Would I have to let it soak in the vinegar?
White vinegar works very well, but needs a long soak to be fully effective - up to 48 hours. This needs to be followed by an immediate wash off and oil. After this, de-grease and use a dremel wirewheel to get the rust out of any pitting. This will get rid of MOST surface rust.
 
How in the world could someone "bend" a barrel by polishing it????/
'Crooking' the barrel does not mean bending it. It means taking away the uniformity of the barrel - thinning the upper section of the barrel slightly. On shooting, the heat generated will cause the barrel to expand in different ways which will affect accuracy, in effect 'bending' the barrel. When cold it returns to normal.
 
White vinegar works very well, but needs a long soak to be fully effective - up to 48 hours. This needs to be followed by an immediate wash off and oil. After this, de-grease and use a dremel wirewheel to get the rust out of any pitting. This will get rid of MOST surface rust.
I might have a hard time soaking a rusty Rev War period sword blade in vinegar so I wonder if Mr. Pullers Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner might work. I tried Brasso, Rust Dissolver, and plenty of wiping down with WD-40. Looks better but not great.
 
I might have a hard time soaking a rusty Rev War period sword blade in vinegar so I wonder if Mr. Pullers Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner might work. I tried Brasso, Rust Dissolver, and plenty of wiping down with WD-40. Looks better but not great.
Why a hard time? Get some guttering or make a 'long box' = a big enough box lined with baking foil or a plastic bag - just make sure you don't puncture the liner.
 
There's only one way to keep a reproduction Springfield bright and shiney, don't ever use it. It's inevitable that it's going to get wet in the field. You'll drive yourself nuts trying to keep it bright. Overagresive cleaning will do more harm than good. I clean mine with Balistol and a 3M scrubby pad which does a pretty good job without scratching but it will leave some dark spots behind. To me it's clean but has a well used in the field look which I actually like over fresh out of the box look.
20230808_173154.jpg
 
There's only one way to keep a reproduction Springfield bright and shiney, don't ever use it. It's inevitable that it's going to get wet in the field. You'll drive yourself nuts trying to keep it bright. Overagresive cleaning will do more harm than good. I clean mine with Balistol and a 3M scrubby pad which does a pretty good job without scratching but it will leave some dark spots behind. To me it's clean but has a well used in the field look which I actually like over fresh out of the box look. View attachment 479973
I definitely have gotten a bit more accustomed to the worn look. Nothing I've tried so far has gotten it off, so I might just take the leap and roll with it, lol.
 
I definitely have gotten a bit more accustomed to the worn look. Nothing I've tried so far has gotten it off, so I might just take the leap and roll with it, lol.
Any weapon is only new once - on first issue. Provided it is cleaned and oiled when required, it develops that 'look' of a service weapon. It is not mint. Some folk look down on anyone 're-blueing' or re-finishing any antique gun, but they often are the ones who can afford a decent example. Poor folk, like me, have to put up with the cheaper ones, broken, rusted and corroded, pitted and rotten, scratched, dented, stained and not nice to look at. You can very rarely get them looking new, or even nearly new - what some call 'display condition'. They all have rust staining somewhere and trying to clean out barrels and cylinders is a nightmare!

Your Springfield is unique. No other Springfield looks just like yours. It has character. Be a good soldier - love it and shoot it!
 
Why a hard time? Get some guttering or make a 'long box' = a big enough box lined with baking foil or a plastic bag - just make sure you don't puncture the liner.
I'm thinking of trying a pipe standing straight up filled with vinegar up to the top with the hilt resting on top outside the pipe. That sounds easier.
 
I'm thinking of trying a pipe standing straight up filled with vinegar up to the top with the hilt resting on top outside the pipe. That sounds easier.
You could easily make one out of PVC, cap one end, put a threaded connector on one end with a screw on cap. I've seen lots of these, people make them to transport fishing rods.
 
You could easily make one out of PVC, cap one end, put a threaded connector on one end with a screw on cap. I've seen lots of these, people make them to transport fishing rods.
Well I took yours and Old Soldiers advice. Here we are at 24 hours and 24 more to go.
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