Dear CivilWarTalk Community,
I am researching the specific pattern used for the Union Army fatigue blouse/sack coat. I am seeking the exact blueprint or pattern that was provided by the U.S. government to tailors and contractors for making these uniforms. Despite searching various archives, I have not yet been able to locate the original pattern or blueprint. If anyone has information on where I might find these historical documents or knows of any specific contracts or records that detail the pattern, I would greatly appreciate your assistance.
The US Army would have employed a tailor to make the pattern and pattern pieces in 1858 when the garment was adopted for the Army and production. The patterns used to cut out the kits handed out at the Schuylkill Arsenal at Philadelphia, which ladies made up for the regular army.
Besides the Schuylkill production, during the war sample pieces (finished garments) were then exhibited around the country where large contracts were made. Any professional tailor could draft a similar pattern without difficulty. Professional tailors in that period drafted their own patterns from mathematical and geometric calculations, using a system like Devere's or Minister's etc. They didn't need a paper pattern, but would draft their own, which was reproduced for use by the contractor cutters. The regulations noted these army blouses were to be fashioned to fit in the manner of the common "sack coat" of the time... which would tell the tailors exactly what they needed to know.
Here's an 1862 pattern draft for a common "short" business sack coat, somewhat akin the resulting army blouse... Fancier than the army blouse (which has no "fishes" cut under the arms, or at the neck to improve fit).
To guide the contractors etc. to making these "sack coats" to the exact pattern of the US Army flannel blouse, the Army published a size table...and exhibited samples.
There are many minor variations in pattern and assembly as a result.
US Sack Coat Article...Military Collector and Historian.
If you can find a copy, perhaps through interlibrary loan, Pat Brown's book "For Fatigue Purposes" might have more information.
Some modern tailors like Charlie Childs or N.J. Sekela, etc. have reproduced patterns for army blouses from measurements of originals, the published dimensions, and consultation of period tailoring books for the drafting, etc. Mr. Childs sells copies of his blouse pattern:
CRChildspatterns...
Bringing the