Three Panel EM Uniforms

[Dr.Mike]

I am currently researching Federal uniforms made with three body panels and no back seams, like those shown in the photographs. The overcoat and middle sack coat were both made by Schuylkill Arsenal (SA). The middle sack coat is lined (multicolor plaid) while the sack coat on the right is unlined, with flat felled seams and no indication of maker. The extensive use of machine-stitching on the right sack coat precludes SA. The right sack coat was worn by Levi Gilpin of the 51st Ohio and may be Cincinnati Depot. I'm interested in hearing from those who can provide other examples. Thanks! Mike

 

[RedRover]

Antebellum wise, some of the 1832 pattern army fatigue jackets made at Schuylkill were made with only three body pieces (a back cut whole, without a center seam).

https://www.si.edu/object/jacket-shell:nmah_397071

Same with some of the 1850s fatigue jackets, like this artillery one...

https://www.si.edu/object/model-1852:nmah_397094

 

[RetiredCanuck]

The curved seams in the back of shell and frock coats are essentially a dart to improve the contour of a fitted garment. A looser fitting fatigue garment does not need that and it saves some needlework.