daguerreotype case restoration

[2nd Dragoon]

Does anyone have a link or resource for daguerreotype case restoration? I have ancestor daguerreotype in cases that the spine is failing. Thank you in advance.

 

[RedRover]

Does anyone have a link or resource for daguerreotype case restoration? I have ancestor daguerreotype in cases that the spine is failing. Thank you in advance.

The Daguerrian Society. They post the following general information:

How can I put a new tape seal on a daguerreotype?

Reseal a daguerreotype using archival tape like Filmoplast P90, which is available from many sources on line -- or a good frame shop may be willing to sell you a couple of feet. Don't tape directly onto the back of the plate (like they did originally) but, rather, cut a piece of thin acetate or unbuffered archival paper (also available from framing and archival supply sources on line) to the same size as the image and tape onto that. This makes a small package with the plate in the middle. Tape it all around and, to seal it good, run the tape up onto the face of the glass a little bit (this will be covered by the preserver if the image has one).

Where can I get thin leather to repair hinged cases with?

We now stock paper-thin pneumatic leather to repair the torn hinges on leather daguerreotype cases, as well as archival glue for attaching the hinge, both available from the Daguerreian Society Store.

Where can I buy archival supplies?

There are a number of dealers in archival supplies. They are easy to find on the Internet, or contact a local archival supply store or a good framing shop for ideas. Ask for a catalog and you will see what they recommend for storing/repairing your antique photographs.

How do I undertake daguerreotype restoration?

For a good background on daguerreotype restoration and technology you should try to get a copy of The Daguerreotype: Nineteenth Century Technology and Modern Science by M. Susan Barger and William B. White. Amazon.com has it.

This form letter I have on file touches on restoration:

Daguerreotypes (1840-1855 +) are on polished silver so they are very reflective, just like a mirror. Since they are on silver and subject to tarnish, daguerreotypes were put behind glass and sealed with paper tape so air cannot tarnish the plate (there often is some tarnish around the edges of the picture). This was then put into a little hinged case, similar to a woman's compact. But, the easiest way to tell if you have a daguerreotype is to see if it has that reflection, just like a mirror. You have to tilt it back and forth to see the image.

The second type of photograph, ambrotypes (1854-1865 +_), also came in hinged cases but they were photographs on glass so they do not have that "shiny mirror" reflection (but, being on glass they are somewhat reflective). If you take an ambrotype out of a case and hold it up to the light you can usually see through the picture (since it's on glass). Ambrotypes don't tarnish but the black paint painted on the backside of the glass often dries out, cracks, and then peels off. Putting a piece of black velvet behind the image will make it look better.

The second biggest problem seen in ambrotypes is the emulsion has turned dark, usually starting near the mat and proceeding inward. This problem is similar in appearance to that seen when a daguerreotype's silver plate is tarnishing but the daguerreotype's tarnish has a dark bluish tint to it while ambrotype's are a brown or grey darkening. As far as I know nothing can be done for an ambrotype's darkening.

A daguerreotype's tarnish can be cleaned by a conservator but that can be costly ($200 - 300 per plate) and most conservators will do nothing if it's not very bad since any cleaning can potentially cause permanent damage as well as remove tinted accents such as rouge on the cheeks or "gold" on the sitter's jewelry. A patina "ring" is not necessarily a bad thing and can sometimes actually add to the beauty of a daguerreotype.

If a daguerreotype is properly resealed the "rings" do not seem to get worse. Most often on cased images it's actually the coverglass that's dirty. It's relatively easy to take an ambrotype apart and clean the glass since they don't have a paper tape seal, but on daguerreotypes there is a paper tape seal (it may have dried out and become loose but at one time it was a tight seal) that prevents air from getting to the daguerreotype's silver plate. That seal can be cut, the glass cleaned or replaced with new single-strength glass, and resealed using archival tape like Filmoplast P -BUT- if you intend on selling the image you would no longer have the "original seals" that many people want to see. For my own collection I have no qualms about replacing the seals as, once I own an image, I keep it.

My interest is in protecting the daguerreotype itself and in the worst glass problem, what we call "weeping glass" (a milky oily substance that's actually weeping out of the antique glass) the substance can drip onto the plate and permanently damage it, causing pits.

A word of caution regarding daguerreotype: Unless you have to, do not take off the coverglass as the image is very fragile and any damage (scratches, fingerprints, etc.) would be permanent. This can be done but is best performed by someone with experience and with the proper materials to reseal the daguerreotype properly to prevent future tarnishing. Ambrotypes and tintypes are not as susceptible to damage but do be careful.

As far as storage: To protect the images, keep them away from direct sunlight (but it is OK to display daguerreotypes occasionally, ambrotypes are more susceptible to light damage) and away from extremes of temperature. A drawer in the bedroom or living room is fine. To protect the leather or the thermoplastic cases you might want to bundle them individually in clean cloth (old t-shirt material is fine) but use no rubber bands.

The Daguerreian Society - FAQ

The Daguerreian Society - Home