Ladies' cloaks or capes

carson_reb · Dec 18, 2011

Ladies (and gentlemen)...

Can anyone tell me about how much wool, wool felt or wool blend costs per yard? Or is it sold per foot these days??

I'd like to have a couple of ladies' cloaks/capes made for my wife and daughter. A good friend of mine and next door neighbor is a very talented seamstress, who enjoys making things in her spare time. And, she has insisted on not charging labor. So, her time is not a cost issue; but I want to supply the materials.

Please PM me with information. I'd like to know what I need to budget for.

Thank you very much.

johan_steele · Dec 19, 2011

http://stonybrookcompany.com/page6.html

Give Chris Sullivan a call.

Elaine Kessinger · Dec 20, 2011

You might consider a paletot/saque instead of a cloak/cape. 1. They are more common by this time. 2. Sleeves allow for easier movement while keeping the torso covered. 3. This style is warmer over-all. 4. Yardages are similar between the garments. 5.Paletot present a more elegant line.

With a cape/cloak one must keep their hands and arms inside... meaning one has a hard time carrying things, reaching for things, etc. without tossing the cloak back from the torso and arms.

Here is a pattern for a paletot. Scroll for sized women's and girls' versions. (Women's is called a "traveling saque")

Other wool sources include:
B Black & Sons
G Street Fabrics
Denver Fabrics
Vogue Fabrics
William Booth, Draper
96 District Storehouse
Needle & Thread- best visited in person, in Gettysburg, if possible
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fabric.net

You might prefer a "melton" which will have a firm edge that doesn't ravel... which like the edge of a frock coat, won't need hemmed. Quilting in the torso lining is sometimes desired for extra warmth.

I know you said to PM you... but everyone benefits from the answers to your questions. No need to be shy, you aren't bothering anyone with your questions.

RobertP · Dec 21, 2011

Elaine Kessinger said:
You might consider a paletot/saque instead of a cloak/cape. 1. They are more common by this time. 2. Sleeves allow for easier movement while keeping the torso covered. 3. This style is warmer over-all. 4. Yardages are similar between the garments. 5.Paletot present a more elegant line.

Elaine, your post caught my eye as I have two of my ggrandmother's coats, one with a cape attached over sleeves (top two pics are front and back views). Would this be called a paletot? The other is a burgundy velvet coat with an attached note saying that she wore it in 1859 at the age of seven. It does have a label that says A. Schwartz & Son, 161 Canal St., N.O.

Elaine Kessinger · Dec 21, 2011

Yes, in period "coats" for women and girls were usually given "fancy" names in the magazines that came into the general populace. (think of how we'd react hearing our "jeans" referred to as "cotton twill trousers." ) To some... a coat is a coat... to some... they want to be more specific.

A paletot (again, this is for women, girls, and toddler boys... men's and boys' "paletot" is a different garment with the same name.) is a sleeved coat with some fitting... can be minimal to very form-fitting, generally thigh to knee length.

A pardeusses is a "paletot" that is longer... knee length to full length. They usually have more trimming details.

A barnous is a pardeusses that has an attached hood (the hood will often end in a tippet or point with tassel)

A saque coat (for women, girls, and toddler boys) is loose fitting and generally shorter... slightly below waist to thigh length. Some saques for children have a rounded front and are slightly shorter than waist length. The key is the very loose fit.

A few more inspiration photos

RobertP · Dec 21, 2011

Elaine Kessinger said:
Yes, in period "coats" for women and girls were usually given "fancy" names in the magazines that came into the general populace. (think of how we'd react hearing our "jeans" referred to as "cotton twill trousers." ) To some... a coat is a coat... to some... they want to be more specific.

A paletot (again, this is for women, girls, and toddler boys... men's and boys' "paletot" is a different garment with the same name.) is a sleeved coat with some fitting... can be minimal to very form-fitting, generally thigh to knee length.

A pardeusses is a "paletot" that is longer... knee length to full length. They usually have more trimming details.

A barnous is a pardeusses that has an attached hood (the hood will often end in a tippet or point with tassel)

A saque coat (for women, girls, and toddler boys) is loose fitting and generally shorter... slightly below waist to thigh length. Some saques for children have a rounded front and are slightly shorter than waist length. The key is the very loose fit.

A few more inspiration photos

Thanks Elaine. I had no idea the names were so specific in describing particular outerwear. Very interesting.

Nathanb1 · Dec 21, 2011

Ah.....G Street Fabrics--as close to heaven as one can get, I do believe. One of my fondest memories of my Washington trips is struggling out of there and walking to the Metro with fabrics draped all over us because they were too heavy to carry that far--and it had gotten colder while we were shopping. Never let it be said Texas gals aren't inventive when the need arises. Glad to have that entire list of links, Elaine.

brindle · Jan 24, 2012

Has anyone come across a picture of a double breasted coat for women? I notice the children above have them, but haven't found that in adult pics... yet. (Have a coat I would like to wear at Shiloh. Imagine nights will be cold there, end of march.

Thanks.

Elaine Kessinger · Jan 24, 2012

In addition to there being instructions for drafting such in most tailoring manuals, there is this one: Expired Image Removed

Understand that such a garment would have been acquired from a bespoke tailor and made specifically to your measurements. Try looking in menswear fashion plates for fashions in women's coats to be depicted.

Ladies' cloaks or capes

carson_reb

Sergeant Major

johan_steele

Regimental Armorer

Elaine Kessinger

Private

RobertP

Lt. Colonel

Attachments

Elaine Kessinger

Private

RobertP

Lt. Colonel

Nathanb1

Brev. Brig. Gen'l

brindle

Private

Elaine Kessinger

Private

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