Touring the Vicksburg and Port Hudson Campaign Sites

How does one schedule an appointment with the Champion clan to tour this private property battlefield?

Back in the 1970's and early 1980's there was an annual reenactment held on the southern portion of the Champion's Hill battlefields across which Confederate General William W. Loring retreated late in the afternoon. During one of those events I had the pleasure of going on a similar "private tour" of the Champion property, probably led by the reenactor who owned a local landmark business, the Cactus Plantation, which - no kidding! - grew cactus commercially. I remember very little about it because of the density all the woods have grown up in this area. Make no mistake, backwoods Mississippi and Louisiana aren't Virginia, Maryland, or Pennsylvania! The often-intolerable heat and especially the humidity are a boon to plants and bugs of every description. These narrow and winding lanes can be extremely confusing and even important places like the battlefield of Port Gibson are often totally unmarked.
 
View attachment 103337

If I were going to attempt this trip today I'd certainly want along this wonderful guidebook that was a "handout" three years ago at the annual convention of the Sons of Confederate Veterans which was held in Vicksburg during the sesquicentennial of the campaign. It covers in exhaustive detail - I might even say overkill for anyone not devoted to the military maneuvers it describes - all the marches, camp sites, and engagements of Grant's final campaign. Unfortunately, I have no information how to get additional copies.

View attachment 103338

This example of a single one of its some 160 pages includes two of the sites described in this thread - note the fullness of the description of actions and exact information of location as well as GPS coordinates for those so inclined!

View attachment 103339

The large-format spiral-bound book, some 8 1/2" X 11" is accompanied by an even larger double-sided map in full color folded and stored stored in a pocket inside the back cover. These scans show portions of the front to allow you to see the detail; the reverse has another map with numbers keyed to page entries for all the sites like #79 and #80 above - Rodney and Bethel Church. Note in the directions of the Legend that the little blue and pink stars indicate the actual physical locations for Grant, John C. Pemberton, and Joseph E. Johnston for every day of the campaign!

View attachment 103340
I was fortunate enough to be given one by the park Ranger when I inquired about Chickasaw Bayou. The guy was new and admitted he didn't know a lot about that area. The driving tour book is really as advertised in your post. It is that good and in depth.
 
As posted on a Vicksburg thread great videos of NPS bus tour to most all the sites in these pics with expert narrative by
Terry Winschel about 9 videos, Port Gibson towards end of #3 and beg of #4 Champions' Hill is about #6 ??

Interesting to see this amateur video by "Karl Stelly" of Louisville Roundtable filmed in 2003 and compare your pics of 2007 ?

Thanks for posting the "throwback"

 
As posted on a Vicksburg thread great videos of NPS bus tour to most all the sites in these pics with expert narrative by
Terry Winschel about 9 videos, Port Gibson towards end of #3 and beg of #4 Champions' Hill is about #6 ??

Interesting to see this amateur video by "Karl Stelly" of Louisville Roundtable filmed in 2003 and compare your pics of 2007 ?

Thanks for posting the "throwback"

I have seen these videos. They are great and Winchel is nice to listen to.
 
Part V - Port Hudson State Park, Louisiana
View attachment 103314

Although the campaign against Port Hudson, Louisiana, was separate from that for Vicksburg, I have chosen to include it here because of its relative nearness for modern travelers. Like Rodney and other Mississippi River towns, almost nothing remains of Port Hudson itself, which proved to be a blessing for historians and preservationists. In addition to the remains of trenches and earthen forts which are mostly visited only by foot, there is an inviting visitor center. When we visited in 2007, one of the most recent acquisitions on display was the large framed Confederate First National that had been the garrison flag surrendered to Maj. Gen. Nathaniel P. Banks' victorious Federals by Brig. Gen. Franklin Gardner.

View attachment 103318

Outside the visitor center the 42-pounder gun on a barbette carriage seen in the first photo is not on the site of an actual battery but serves as an exhibit showing how some of the guns here were mounted. The U. S. Navy 32-pounder gun above shows battle damage from the siege; note in addition to the chunk missing from the muzzle the gouge on the barrel and the broken-off trunion.

View attachment 103315

The site of the Confederate works that completely encircled it are now preserved in a gem of a Louisiana state park; the downside of this, however, is that they are almost completely overgrown by vegetation that prevents anything like a historical view. A well-maintained series of trails cover the site leading from one strongpoint to another offering scenes and interpretive signs like these at Confederate Fort Desperate. While the trail isn't particularly arduous, it's nevertheless pretty long and takes a couple of hours; in the Louisiana heat and humidity it can be quite enervating.

View attachment 103316

Outside the park almost nothing remains of the once-thriving town; the house below is supposedly the sole survivor. When we were there the Confederate Monument standing partly dismantled in the foreground was undergoing stabilization and repair.

View attachment 103317

Rosswood Plantation B&B Near Port Gibson, Mississippi
View attachment 103319

To round out this record of my visit I'll include these additional views of the bed-and-breakfast that provided a good central location to visit the sites around Port Gibson like Grand Gulf, Rodney, and Windsor; it even boasted it's own "battle"! It seems the campaigns had largely bypassed it, but at least once Union foragers were driven off by a spirited cavalry action where their drive joins the road to Port Gibson.

View attachment 103321

The map of the Vicksburg Campaign below by Hal Jepson at civilwarmaps.com has been edited to indicate places mentioned in this thread:

1. Grant's Canal
2. Town of Raymond
3. Raymond Battlefield and Confederate Cemetery
4. Champion's Hill and House site
5. Grand Gulf Military Park
6. Ruins of Windsor
7. Bethel Presbyterian Church
8. Ghost town of Rodney
9. Approximate location of Rosswood Plantation B&B

View attachment 103322
I'm thinking about a weekend road trip to Port Hudson this winter,December-February.
 
Back in the 1970's and early 1980's there was an annual reenactment held on the southern portion of the Champion's Hill battlefields across which Confederate General William W. Loring retreated late in the afternoon. During one of those events I had the pleasure of going on a similar "private tour" of the Champion property, probably led by the reenactor who owned a local landmark business, the Cactus Plantation, which - no kidding! - grew cactus commercially. I remember very little about it because of the density all the woods have grown up in this area. Make no mistake, backwoods Mississippi and Louisiana aren't Virginia, Maryland, or Pennsylvania! The often-intolerable heat and especially the humidity are a boon to plants and bugs of every description. These narrow and winding lanes can be extremely confusing and even important places like the battlefield of Port Gibson are often totally unmarked.
We saw some of the Grant's Trail markers on our recent tour with Terry Winschel, who was instrumental in getting those markers made and placed. Thanks to those markers, some of those spots are easier to find now!
https://mississippiriver.natgeotourism.com/content/grants-trail/mspd043933ebf34f2dc3

There's also a brochure to guide you on a driving tour that is available at the Vicksburg Battlefield visitor center.
http://www.visitmississippi.org/events-and-points-of-interest/vicksburg-campaign-trail-27085
 
I was fortunate enough to be given one by the park Ranger when I inquired about Chickasaw Bayou. The guy was new and admitted he didn't know a lot about that area. The driving tour book is really as advertised in your post. It is that good and in depth.
That's exactly how I got mine too.... maybe "Chickasaw Bayou" is the password!
 
That's exactly how I got mine too.... maybe "Chickasaw Bayou" is the password!
I have the Blue & Gray back issue on Chickasaw Bayou. It was recommended to me by a friend who has it and used it on a visit there. It is still available on the B&G website while supplies last.
 
I have the Blue & Gray back issue on Chickasaw Bayou. It was recommended to me by a friend who has it and used it on a visit there. It is still available on the B&G website while supplies last.
That issue is probably the best description of the Battle anywhere in print. And easily the best source for maps for each day of the battle.
 
Part II - Grand Gulf Area
View attachment 103216
Ruins of Windsor Plantation stand on a country road near Port Gibson, Mississippi.

Grand Gulf State Park
View attachment 103218

In 1863 Grand Gulf was both a town on the Mississippi River and a Confederate bastion, the site of Fort Cobun and Fort Wade which prevented Grant and his troops from crossing the river at this point. Today it is a quiet and little-visited state historic site which preserves the area once occupied by the town and the remains of the two forts. Long ago the Mississippi changed course, however, now leaving the spot a distance from the now-unseen river and isolated in dense woods. Above, near the visitor center is one of the huge 13-inch mortars used by the fleet of Union mortar boats commanded by Rear Admiral David Dixon Porter. Below, a beautifully restored ca. 1850's Gothic Revival-style church in the park. For more about Grand Gulf: http://civilwartalk.com/threads/battle-of-grand-gulf.25930/

View attachment 103217

Bethel Presbyterian Church
View attachment 103219

This church, ca. 1843, stands along a road used by Grant's army moving inland after crossing the river at Bruinsburg Plantation south of Grand Gulf. it was severely damaged in 1947 by a tornado which toppled the tall steeple but was subsequently repaired, minus the steeple! Supposedly most of the structure is original.

Ruins of Windsor Plantation
View attachment 103220

This well-known landmark also stands below Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; it was used briefly as a setting in the 1950's Elizabeth Taylor - Montgomery Clift Civil War-era movie Raintree County, no doubt because of its picturesque quality. Built in 1860, it was the largest mansion house in the region until in 1890 it was burned to the ground when a guest threw a lighted cigarette into a wastebasket! Originally, it was so tall - three stories, atop the bluffs - it was easily visible from the river and so served steamboat pilots as a landmark; unfortunately the stately ruins were as of 2007 engulfed by towering trees that dwarf its size. To get an idea of scale, note my friend Mike standing between two of the columns!

View attachment 103221

Rodney, a Mississippi River Ghost Town
View attachment 103223

This stately church is virtually all that remains of the once-thriving river town Rodney, Mississippi; note within the red circle a Union cannonball from the river fleet still lodged in the wall above the window! It was here that Grant planned to cross the river before learning from a contraband of the unopposed crossing place at nearby Bruinsburg. When the river changed course it withdrew from the town, leaving it stranded; soon inhabitants also left. Houses have disappeared leaving only the grid of streets where they once stood, their places taken by a few derelict house trailers, some apparently still occupied. The hill behind the church still contains the graves of the town founders and citizens in a huge overgrown and generally creepy cemetery.

View attachment 103222

Mount Locust Stand
View attachment 103224

This log structure is what was known as a stand, or tavern/inn along the Natchez Trace. It is now a stop along Natchez Trace Parkway, a unit of the National Park Service near Natchez, Mississippi, and is typical of older structures in the area during the campaigns of 1862 and 1863.

Next, Part III - St. Francisville, Louisiana.

Thanks for posting these. My Avatar was from Port Gibson where he enlistes in 61. Later he worked at the Vicksburg Battle field from 1902 to 1920 when he died. One day my plan is to spend some time there. I never realized how close I was when visiting Monroe La. Lost opportunity. Thanks
 
Once again the value in home page threads, thanks for bringing this back. These ruins in the middle nowhere are haunting beyond your ability to take it in, much less a church serving a phantom town.

Is there a thread somewhere in CWT history on Hart's burial? What a story, good time for a bump, or for someone familiar with it to get into it further I'd have a shot but somehow feel it can be told in less than 10,000 words.

Thanks for another CWT tour, no hotel, traffic or struggling with the new-fangled GPS required.
 
As posted on a Vicksburg thread great videos of NPS bus tour to most all the sites in these pics with expert narrative by
Terry Winschel about 9 videos, Port Gibson towards end of #3 and beg of #4 Champions' Hill is about #6 ??

Interesting to see this amateur video by "Karl Stelly" of Louisville Roundtable filmed in 2003 and compare your pics of 2007 ?

Thanks for posting the "throwback"

Thanks for posting. Very interesting. The Tour Guide did a great job!
 
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned, but the Rosswood Mansion that James N. posted:

Image (10).jpg


was designed by the same architect that drew the plans for the much more palatial Windsor.

Although Rosswood is a grand home, it pales in comparison to even the remaining "Windsor ruins".
Just goes to show, back then as now any home builder/contractor could meet any budget if the price was right. :smoke:



 
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned, but the Rosswood Mansion that James N. posted:

View attachment 145152

was designed by the same architect that drew the plans for the much more palatial Windsor.

Although Rosswood is a grand home, it pales in comparison to even the remaining "Windsor ruins".
Just goes to show, back then as now any home builder/contractor could meet any budget if the price was right. :smoke:



Thanks - I didn't know that. I think as palatial as Windsor no doubt was I'd feel more at home here at Rosswood! I only hope it's still serving as a B&B; at the time of our visit the lady of the house was bedridden and the only way we spoke to her was through the door - her husband performed all the host duties with an able assist from a hired lady who came in the morning to prepare and serve what I remember as a wonderful breakfast.
 
Part II - Grand Gulf Area
View attachment 103216
Ruins of Windsor Plantation stand on a country road near Port Gibson, Mississippi.

Grand Gulf State Park
View attachment 103218

In 1863 Grand Gulf was both a town on the Mississippi River and a Confederate bastion, the site of Fort Cobun and Fort Wade which prevented Grant and his troops from crossing the river at this point. Today it is a quiet and little-visited state historic site which preserves the area once occupied by the town and the remains of the two forts. Long ago the Mississippi changed course, however, now leaving the spot a distance from the now-unseen river and isolated in dense woods. Above, near the visitor center is one of the huge 13-inch mortars used by the fleet of Union mortar boats commanded by Rear Admiral David Dixon Porter. Below, a beautifully restored ca. 1850's Gothic Revival-style church in the park. For more about Grand Gulf: http://civilwartalk.com/threads/battle-of-grand-gulf.25930/

View attachment 103217

Bethel Presbyterian Church
View attachment 103219

This church, ca. 1843, stands along a road used by Grant's army moving inland after crossing the river at Bruinsburg Plantation south of Grand Gulf. it was severely damaged in 1947 by a tornado which toppled the tall steeple but was subsequently repaired, minus the steeple! Supposedly most of the structure is original.

Ruins of Windsor Plantation
View attachment 103220

This well-known landmark also stands below Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; it was used briefly as a setting in the 1950's Elizabeth Taylor - Montgomery Clift Civil War-era movie Raintree County, no doubt because of its picturesque quality. Built in 1860, it was the largest mansion house in the region until in 1890 it was burned to the ground when a guest threw a lighted cigarette into a wastebasket! Originally, it was so tall - three stories, atop the bluffs - it was easily visible from the river and so served steamboat pilots as a landmark; unfortunately the stately ruins were as of 2007 engulfed by towering trees that dwarf its size. To get an idea of scale, note my friend Mike standing between two of the columns!

View attachment 103221

Rodney, a Mississippi River Ghost Town
View attachment 103223

This stately church is virtually all that remains of the once-thriving river town Rodney, Mississippi; note within the red circle a Union cannonball from the river fleet still lodged in the wall above the window! It was here that Grant planned to cross the river before learning from a contraband of the unopposed crossing place at nearby Bruinsburg. When the river changed course it withdrew from the town, leaving it stranded; soon inhabitants also left. Houses have disappeared leaving only the grid of streets where they once stood, their places taken by a few derelict house trailers, some apparently still occupied. The hill behind the church still contains the graves of the town founders and citizens in a huge overgrown and generally creepy cemetery.

View attachment 103222

Mount Locust Stand
View attachment 103224

This log structure is what was known as a stand, or tavern/inn along the Natchez Trace. It is now a stop along Natchez Trace Parkway, a unit of the National Park Service near Natchez, Mississippi, and is typical of older structures in the area during the campaigns of 1862 and 1863.

Next, Part III - St. Francisville, Louisiana.
I saw somewhere where some restoration work was being done on the Windsor ruins (columns) and the question occurred to me, what are the columns made of: brick, cement, stone? Does anybody have any info what exactly they are doing? Who or what owns the ruins? Thanks and Happy New Year.
 
Back
Top