Touring the Vicksburg and Port Hudson Campaign Sites

James N.

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Part I - Grant's Campaign for Vicksburg

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Rosswood Plantation near Port Gibson, Mississippi

This thread is intended to be only a sampling of places and things to see near and along the Great River Road on both sides of the Mississippi River that pertain to the 1863 campaign conducted by Union generals Ulysses S. Grant and Nathaniel P. Banks against the twin Confederate bastions of Vicksburg, Mississippi and Port Hudson, Louisiana. The photos were all taken during a visit to the region in May, 2007; those depicting Vicksburg itself have been featured in previous threads. ( http://civilwartalk.com/threads/vicksburg-national-military-park.86707/ ; http://civilwartalk.com/threads/vicksburg-scenes.86715/ ) This is by no means a complete tour of the area but intended to give an idea of its historical richness; each entry is easily deserving a separate thread of its own.

Grant's Canal, Delta, Louisiana
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Just across the Mississippi River from the city of Vicksburg perched on its high bluffs is the tiny community of Delta. Along old U.S. 80 before reaching the river bridge is the site of Grant's Canal, one of the early attempts to bypass the Vicksburg river defenses. It's now a unit of Vicksburg National Military Park and contains only this short and shallow depression, all that remains of a ditch once deep and wide enough to carry steamboats!

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Raymond, Mississippi
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Failing to isolate Vicksburg by diverting part of the great river through the canal, Grant resorted to crossing the Mississippi farther south and approaching the citadel from its land side. Small battles were fought at places like Raymond as the confused Confederates attempted to divine Grant's intentions. The 1850's courthouse served as a hospital following the battle here, as did the nearby church.

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Confederate Dead from the battle and the hospitals lie in the small cemetery; many were from Brig. Gen. John Gregg's 7th Texas Infantry Regiment, the main force involved.

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The Texas State Monument stands on the small battlefield where Gregg's 7th Texas made their attack against the head of the overwhelming Union force commanded by Maj. Gen. James B. McPherson.

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For more about Raymond and its battlefield: http://civilwartalk.com/threads/photos-of-the-raymond-battlefield.90805/#post-732305

Champion's Hill Battlefield
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At the time of my visit in 2007 most of the Champion's Hill battlefield remained in the ownership of the Champion family and was off-limits to visitors. Above, the area known as the Crossroads; along the road leading away the Missouri Confederate division of Maj. Gen. John Bowen rushed to resist the Federal assault on the hill itself - note the posted keep out signs! Below, a huge and ancient live oak, a now-dead but still standing witness tree at the site of the Champion House.

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How does one schedule an appointment with the Champion clan to tour this private property battlefield?
 
If I recall correctly from my visit, the Texas marker at Raymond is very nearly in someone's driveway. It was also frustratingly hard to find; I looked around for half an hour before giving up and it was only by chance that I saw it in my mirror as I started to drive away. One would think they could have found a better place for it.
 
Part II - Grand Gulf Area
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Ruins of Windsor Plantation stand on a country road near Port Gibson, Mississippi.

Grand Gulf State Park
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In 1863 Grand Gulf was both a town on the Mississippi River and a Confederate bastion, the site of Fort Cobun and Fort Wade which prevented Grant and his troops from crossing the river at this point. Today it is a quiet and little-visited state historic site which preserves the area once occupied by the town and the remains of the two forts. Long ago the Mississippi changed course, however, now leaving the spot a distance from the now-unseen river and isolated in dense woods. Above, near the visitor center is one of the huge 13-inch mortars used by the fleet of Union mortar boats commanded by Rear Admiral David Dixon Porter. Below, a beautifully restored ca. 1850's Gothic Revival-style church in the park. For more about Grand Gulf: http://civilwartalk.com/threads/battle-of-grand-gulf.25930/

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Bethel Presbyterian Church
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This church, ca. 1843, stands along a road used by Grant's army moving inland after crossing the river at Bruinsburg Plantation south of Grand Gulf. it was severely damaged in 1947 by a tornado which toppled the tall steeple but was subsequently repaired, minus the steeple! Supposedly most of the structure is original.

Ruins of Windsor Plantation
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This well-known landmark also stands below Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; it was used briefly as a setting in the 1950's Elizabeth Taylor - Montgomery Clift Civil War-era movie Raintree County, no doubt because of its picturesque quality. Built in 1860, it was the largest mansion house in the region until in 1890 it was burned to the ground when a guest threw a lighted cigarette into a wastebasket! Originally, it was so tall - three stories, atop the bluffs - it was easily visible from the river and so served steamboat pilots as a landmark; unfortunately the stately ruins were as of 2007 engulfed by towering trees that dwarf its size. To get an idea of scale, note my friend Mike standing between two of the columns!

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Rodney, a Mississippi River Ghost Town
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This stately church is virtually all that remains of the once-thriving river town Rodney, Mississippi; note within the red circle a Union cannonball from the river fleet still lodged in the wall above the window! It was here that Grant planned to cross the river before learning from a contraband of the unopposed crossing place at nearby Bruinsburg. When the river changed course it withdrew from the town, leaving it stranded; soon inhabitants also left. Houses have disappeared leaving only the grid of streets where they once stood, their places taken by a few derelict house trailers, some apparently still occupied. The hill behind the church still contains the graves of the town founders and citizens in a huge overgrown and generally creepy cemetery.

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Mount Locust Stand
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This log structure is what was known as a stand, or tavern/inn along the Natchez Trace. It is now a stop along Natchez Trace Parkway, a unit of the National Park Service near Natchez, Mississippi, and is typical of older structures in the area during the campaigns of 1862 and 1863.

Next, Part III - St. Francisville, Louisiana.
 
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Part III - St. Francisville, Louisiana
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Grace Episcopal Church in quiet and lovely St. Francisville, Louisiana was the scene of one of the war's romantic incidents. Built between 1868 and 1860 its steeple served as a landmark for pilots on the Mississippi, including those of Union Admiral David G. Farragut's ocean-going fleet which had ascended the Mississippi River following the fall of new Orleans in 1862.

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When Lt. Commander John Hart of the U.S.S. Albatross died aboard his ship, Union Masons approached the Confederates ashore with a request for his burial. Confederate and local civilian Masons agreed, so for a day the war was put aside and Hart's funeral was held in Grace Episcopal Church with Masons from both sides in attendance! Hart remains today where he was buried with honors in the churchyard:

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Locust Grove State Historic Site
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Nearby downtown St. Francisville is the tiny Locust Grove State Historic Site which consists only of this small cemetery; its significance lies in the fact that it is the resting place of Sarah Knox Taylor Davis, daughter of President General Zachary Taylor and first wife of Confederate President Jefferson Davis. Her grave is beneath the raised vault seen in the foreground below and in the back corner above. The grave in the foreground above is that of War of 1812 General Eleazor Ripley.

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The Myrtles
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Probably the best-known site in St. Francisville, however, is that of The Myrtles,with its reputation as "the most haunted house in America." True or not, it is a lovely home, built ca. 1796 and now a B&B (!) with a converted carriage house restaurant where we ate prior to the inevitable ghost tour! (Predictably, we saw no ghosts!)

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Next, Part IV - Port Hudson
 
If I recall correctly from my visit, the Texas marker at Raymond is very nearly in someone's driveway. It was also frustratingly hard to find; I looked around for half an hour before giving up and it was only by chance that I saw it in my mirror as I started to drive away. One would think they could have found a better place for it.

I agree; this visit was before the creation of the small battlefield park, which ironically isn't actually on the main battlefield! This monument was probably placed where is is, however, because it's actually on the ground covered by the 7th Texas during their attack and fairly close to the highway.
 
Part II - Grand Gulf Area
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Ruins of Windsor Plantation between Port Gibson and Grand Gulf, Mississippi.

Grand Gulf State Park
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In 1863 Grand Gulf was both a town on the Mississippi River and a Confederate bastion, the site of Fort Cobun and Fort Wade which prevented Grant and his troops from crossing the river at this point. Today it is a quiet and little-visited state historic site which preserves the area once occupied by the town and the remains of the two forts. Long ago the Mississippi changed course, however, now leaving the spot a distance from its banks and isolated in dense woods. Above, near the visitor center is one of the huge 13-inch mortars used by the fleet of Union mortar boats commanded by Rear Admiral David Dixon Porter. Below, a beautifully restored ca. 1850's Gothic Revival-style church.

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Bethel Presbyterian Church

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This church, ca. 1843, stands along a road used by Grant's army moving inland after crossing the river at Bruinsburg Plantation south of Grand Gulf. it was severely damaged in 1947 by a tornado which toppled the tall steeple but subsequently repaired, minus the steeple!

Ruins of Windsor Plantation
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This well-known landmark also stands between Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; it was used briefly as a setting in the 1950's Elizabeth Taylor - Montgomery Clift movie Raintree County, no doubt because of its picturesque quality. Built in 1860, it was the largest mansion house in the region until in 1890 it was burned to the ground when a guest threw a lighted cigarette into a wastebasket! Originally, it was so tall it was easily visible from the river and so served steamboat pilots as a guidepoint; unfortunately the stately ruins are now - as of 2007 - engulfed by towering pine trees that dwarf its size. To get an idea of scale, note my friend Mike standing between two of the columns!

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Rodney, a Mississippi River Ghost Town
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This stately church is virtually all that remains of the once-thriving river town Rodney, Mississippi; note within the red circle a Union cannonball from the river fleet still lodged in the wall above the window! It was here that Grant planned to cross the river before learning from a contraband of the crossing place at nearby Bruinsburg. When the river changed course, it withdrew from the town, leaving it stranded; soon inhabitants also left. Houses have disappeared leaving only the grid of streets where they once stood, their places taken by a few derelict house trailers, some apparently still occupied. The hill behind the church still contains the graves of the town founders and citizens in a huge overgrown and generally creepy cemetery.

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Mount Locust Stand
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This log structure is what was known as a stand, or tavern-inn along the Natchez Trace. It is now a stop along Natchez Trace Parkway, a unit of the National Park Service near Natchez, Mississippi, and is typical of older structures in the area during the campaigns of 1862 and 1863.

Next, St. Francisville, Louisiana.
Just made a trip to Natchez back in the spring. We also visited Windsor Ruins and actually found the cemetery down the road in which the owner and family was buried. The cemetery was located atop a Indian mound and was very hard to get access to. Very interesting
 
Great photo tour James N. :thumbsup:

Just made a trip to Natchez back in the spring. We also visited Windsor Ruins and actually found the cemetery down the road in which the owner and family was buried. The cemetery was located atop a Indian mound and was very hard to get access to. Very interesting
I lived in Natchez for almost twenty years, we used to take day trips to all theses places.

Thanks for posting. I haven't seen any recent photos of these ruins. I wondered what was there to see now.

The ruins are still well maintained. There's a neat drone video from last January here:
http://kingfish1935.blogspot.com/2016/01/windsor-ruins-from-above-video.html
 
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Part II - Grand Gulf Area
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Ruins of Windsor Plantation between Port Gibson and Grand Gulf, Mississippi.

Grand Gulf State Park
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In 1863 Grand Gulf was both a town on the Mississippi River and a Confederate bastion, the site of Fort Cobun and Fort Wade which prevented Grant and his troops from crossing the river at this point. Today it is a quiet and little-visited state historic site which preserves the area once occupied by the town and the remains of the two forts. Long ago the Mississippi changed course, however, now leaving the spot a distance from its banks and isolated in dense woods. Above, near the visitor center is one of the huge 13-inch mortars used by the fleet of Union mortar boats commanded by Rear Admiral David Dixon Porter. Below, a beautifully restored ca. 1850's Gothic Revival-style church.

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Bethel Presbyterian Church

View attachment 103219

This church, ca. 1843, stands along a road used by Grant's army moving inland after crossing the river at Bruinsburg Plantation south of Grand Gulf. it was severely damaged in 1947 by a tornado which toppled the tall steeple but subsequently repaired, minus the steeple!

Ruins of Windsor Plantation
View attachment 103220

This well-known landmark also stands between Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; it was used briefly as a setting in the 1950's Elizabeth Taylor - Montgomery Clift movie Raintree County, no doubt because of its picturesque quality. Built in 1860, it was the largest mansion house in the region until in 1890 it was burned to the ground when a guest threw a lighted cigarette into a wastebasket! Originally, it was so tall it was easily visible from the river and so served steamboat pilots as a guidepoint; unfortunately the stately ruins are now - as of 2007 - engulfed by towering pine trees that dwarf its size. To get an idea of scale, note my friend Mike standing between two of the columns!

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Rodney, a Mississippi River Ghost Town
View attachment 103223

This stately church is virtually all that remains of the once-thriving river town Rodney, Mississippi; note within the red circle a Union cannonball from the river fleet still lodged in the wall above the window! It was here that Grant planned to cross the river before learning from a contraband of the crossing place at nearby Bruinsburg. When the river changed course, it withdrew from the town, leaving it stranded; soon inhabitants also left. Houses have disappeared leaving only the grid of streets where they once stood, their places taken by a few derelict house trailers, some apparently still occupied. The hill behind the church still contains the graves of the town founders and citizens in a huge overgrown and generally creepy cemetery.

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Mount Locust Stand
View attachment 103224

This log structure is what was known as a stand, or tavern-inn along the Natchez Trace. It is now a stop along Natchez Trace Parkway, a unit of the National Park Service near Natchez, Mississippi, and is typical of older structures in the area during the campaigns of 1862 and 1863.

Next, St. Francisville, Louisiana.
I've always wanted to see the church at Rodney but the last time I tried one of the roads was closed.....I'll give it another shot one day.
 
I've always wanted to see the church at Rodney but the last time I tried one of the roads was closed.....I'll give it another shot one day.
Finding Rodney is a bona fide National Geographic style adventure !

Fortunately, I knew guys who owned deer camps nearby . . . so they were able to take me directly to what's left of the "ghost town".
 
If I recall correctly from my visit, the Texas marker at Raymond is very nearly in someone's driveway. It was also frustratingly hard to find; I looked around for half an hour before giving up and it was only by chance that I saw it in my mirror as I started to drive away. One would think they could have found a better place for it.
Placement of the Texas monument at Raymond has come up here on a couple of occasions. I'm not speaking on behalf of anyone, but I am simply recalling what I remember.

Groups from Texas raised a lot of the money for the monument. They pushed very hard for the monument to be placed as close to where the 7th Texas began their actual attack on May 12. But Highway 18 cuts right through where the attack occurred. As a result, that portion of the field has long been lost. The county owns a right- of -way on each side of Highway 18. The monument could have been placed on property of Friends of Raymond Battlefield, but it would not have been "exactly" where the attack began,or where tremendous casualties of the brave Texans actually occurred that day.

Take this for what it's worth: Friends of Raymond was proud to have modern-day Texans place a monument on the battlefield. It was our first monument. Friends of Raymond worked very hard to honor the Texas coalition's request. The property next to the driveway was acquired to their approval. I know because I expended hours of sweat and time,with many others, readying the location for the placement. This is where the Texans wanted it, and we followed through with their wishes as best we could. If I recall correctly, they were absolutely happy.

I think this just needed to be said on behalf of the folks in Texas who raised the money and requested the location, and for the folks here in Mississippi who worked hard behind the scenes to grant the coalition's desire -- and that was no small feat.

The monument is a bit hidden, of course, but it was done more for History than for tourists. Whether right or wrong, that's my recollection and my feelings at the time.

Just know the "hidden" monument is on sacred and bloodied ground, and I was proud to be a part of the honoring.
 
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The monument is a bit hidden, of course, but it was done more for History than for tourists. Whether right or wrong, that's my recollection and my feelings at the time.

Just know the "hidden" monument is on sacred and bloodied ground, and I was proud to be a part of the honoring.

I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Your efforts will not be forgotten.
 
I think this just needed to be said on behalf of the folks in Texas who raised the money and requested the location, and for the folks here in Mississippi who worked hard behind the scenes to grant the coalition's desire -- and that was no small feat.

From my limited experience with The Friends of Raymond . . . they're a great group !
They will gladly work with anyone to properly document the history of the Battle of Raymond.

http://www.friendsofraymond.org
 
Part V - Port Hudson State Park, Louisiana
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Although the campaign against Port Hudson, Louisiana, was separate from that for Vicksburg, I have chosen to include it here because of its relative nearness for modern travelers. Like Rodney and other Mississippi River towns, almost nothing remains of Port Hudson itself, which proved to be a blessing for historians and preservationists. In addition to the remains of trenches and earthen forts which are mostly visited only by foot, there is an inviting visitor center. When we visited in 2007, one of the most recent acquisitions on display was the large framed Confederate First National that had been the garrison flag surrendered to Maj. Gen. Nathaniel P. Banks' victorious Federals by Brig. Gen. Franklin Gardner.

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Outside the visitor center the 42-pounder gun on a barbette carriage seen in the first photo is not on the site of an actual battery but serves as an exhibit showing how some of the guns here were mounted. The U. S. Navy 32-pounder gun above shows battle damage from the siege; note in addition to the chunk missing from the muzzle the gouge on the barrel and the broken-off trunion.

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The site of the Confederate works that completely encircled it are now preserved in a gem of a Louisiana state park; the downside of this, however, is that they are almost completely overgrown by vegetation that prevents anything like a historical view. A well-maintained series of trails cover the site leading from one strongpoint to another offering scenes and interpretive signs like these at Confederate Fort Desperate. While the trail isn't particularly arduous, it's nevertheless pretty long and takes a couple of hours; in the Louisiana heat and humidity it can be quite enervating.

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Outside the park almost nothing remains of the once-thriving town; the house below is supposedly the sole survivor. When we were there the Confederate Monument standing partly dismantled in the foreground was undergoing stabilization and repair.

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Rosswood Plantation B&B Near Port Gibson, Mississippi
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To round out this record of my visit I'll include these additional views of the bed-and-breakfast that provided a good central location to visit the sites around Port Gibson like Grand Gulf, Rodney, and Windsor; it even boasted it's own "battle"! It seems the campaigns had largely bypassed it, but at least once Union foragers were driven off by a spirited cavalry action where their drive joins the road to Port Gibson.

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The map of the Vicksburg Campaign below by Hal Jepson at civilwarmaps.com has been edited to indicate places mentioned in this thread:

1. Grant's Canal
2. Town of Raymond
3. Raymond Battlefield and Confederate Cemetery
4. Champion's Hill and House site
5. Grand Gulf Military Park
6. Ruins of Windsor
7. Bethel Presbyterian Church
8. Ghost town of Rodney
9. Approximate location of Rosswood Plantation B&B

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How does one schedule an appointment with the Champion clan to tour this private property battlefield?
Good stuff James N. Love your threads and pictures of all the places you have visited.
Finding Rodney is a bona fide National Geographic style adventure !

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If I were going to attempt this trip today I'd certainly want along this wonderful guidebook that was a "handout" three years ago at the annual convention of the Sons of Confederate Veterans which was held in Vicksburg during the sesquicentennial of the campaign. It covers in exhaustive detail - I might even say overkill for anyone not devoted to the military maneuvers it describes - all the marches, camp sites, and engagements of Grant's final campaign. Unfortunately, I have no information how to get additional copies.

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This example of a single one of its some 160 pages includes two of the sites described in this thread - note the fullness of the description of actions and exact information of location as well as GPS coordinates for those so inclined!

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The large-format spiral-bound book, some 8 1/2" X 11" is accompanied by an even larger double-sided map in full color folded and stored stored in a pocket inside the back cover. These scans show portions of the front to allow you to see the detail; the reverse has another map with numbers keyed to page entries for all the sites like #79 and #80 above - Rodney and Bethel Church. Note in the directions of the Legend that the little blue and pink stars indicate the actual physical locations for Grant, John C. Pemberton, and Joseph E. Johnston for every day of the campaign!

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