The Shape Of Fashion History, Our Corsets

JPK Huson 1863

Brev. Brig. Gen'l
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Location
Central Pennsylvania
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We've had threads on corsets, the thankfully defunct, breath depriving shape shifting garment controversially discussed into 2017. We tend to have a fascination with them, too. Why? Well, maybe we miss them, too, a little.

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Deco era Fairy godmother, queen of all feminine perfection remains frozen in a centuries old corseted outline with teeny, low waist, unseen hips and narrow ribs. Entertainingly, ' fashion ' during this era featured that ' bosumy ', almost top-heavy, matronly style. Fairy tale princesses, queens and godmothers remained unchanged.

Disclaimer, please. No single thread can encompass " The History of Corsets ", please excuse centuries of missed lace and lacing?


One, huge reason corsets, and their shape-shifting helpmate the crinoline are so controversial is because it is thought women wore them to make their shapes more attractive- i.e. feminine - to men. No sociological anthropologist, and through time, certainly, some models can only be described as er, platforms. But. Enjoying a fashion life span nearly as long as the cute shoe, was it always, really merely a male-pleasing, innards-displacing, centuries-long mandate? Bet it wasn't.

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Found this on NYPL, a European ( man ) skewering women's fashion extremes. Lacing corsets more and more tightly gave a ' better ' outline. From 1829, it's hilarious and not indicative of admiration- by men.

We. Loved. Fashion. Fashion has hysterically gone out of fashion, at least society-wide. It's a kind of liberation for women. Unless one chooses, we're no longer tied to the extremes which could cause say, a woman of the 1860's to engage in her house maid's work wearing crinolines. Scrub a floor embedded in a wire frame?
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From a book on women's ' toilets ', of the era, in Hathitrust, here's the uber-feminine, corseted outline shared by a fashionable woman and both her maids. Obviously a butterflies 'n roses extreme, it illustrates an expectation.

" No one, we apprehend, would be likely to deny that, to enable the fairer portion of the civilized human race to follow the time honored custom of presenting to the eye the waist in its most slender proportions, the Corset in some form must be resorted to. "
From " Freaks of Fashion ", 1870.
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A French, 16th century corset yikes! Was it really? No idea- an 1870's, French book says so.

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1700's, still the French history.

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If these are accurate for 1745, and a maid is fastening her corset here, they became far more cumbersome later?


Pretty funny and cool book, first making you think it's an anti-corset work. Nope. Kinda ' Ode to Corsets Through Time '. If this gentleman wrote of women's shoes, you'd be a little worried about him. Please note it is public access and a copy exists which has been republished.
https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=umn.31951002345106b;view=1up;seq=7e

Although there was concern corseting was harmful to women, copies of anti-corset material I turned up in simple searches seem mostly from Germany and France although France seemed equally thrilled with the garment- so go figure.
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It's from later- 1905 but the best image. NYPL, and a German illustration


Then there is this from the " Freaks " book! It's so odd. Out of Godey's and Demorest's not a peep on the following. There really is a bizarre flavor to this era book suggestive of well, someone a little too interested in the control function surrounding both garment and women? Really have not seen this elsewhere. There's some great basic information, please go easy on accuracy?

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Ah. Thomson's, Godey's and Demorest's gave us the corset, around which legends floated. Painfully, but floated.
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From ' our ' era, corsets seem to me to have created one of the most endearing and enduring images- if u we hold in History. Nope, not at all good for you, not comprehensively admired by men despite what current thought may be ( the whole anti-crinoline campaign was part of it- corsets being half of what created that astonishing outline ), you could not stand over an operating table, preside over board rooms, climb Everest or achieve most of our landmark advances while dedicated to such an outrageous profile. And still. Somewhere in our dreams lurks that Fairy Princess- her improbable figure molded by a corset.

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NYPL provided most images, " Freaks of Fashion ", link provided, others

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So funny, as the tight waist, huge flair extreme became absurd, cartoonist pens became more barbed

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A French corset dropped into the beginnings of a crinoline- twofer

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Love the "Ventilating" corset. I would need an a/c corset - seriously - how did they put up with the heat, especially down south in the humidity too?


Right? We just had an extremely humid, hot week and I thought the same thing. Somewhere we have a thread discussing how the heat was dealt with- house designs, for instance, were brilliant. My mother spent some childhood years in Arkansas and remembers summer covers for furniture- a few other things. Still. Covered in fabric, no matter how light and wrapped in one of these? Ouch?
 
I had a horrible nightmare. @JPK Huson 1863 made a thread with only one photo!! :smile: :smile:


Too funny! And true. The thing is, between NYPL, LoC, National Archives and all of Hathitrust plus the public access, archived books someone tempts us with daily, it's Christmas for history geeks out there, Mike! There's just so much! What I'm crazy about is the commitment to sharing History with all of us, the effort going into all these sites.
 
Some women at the Faire wear these. They love them. Save money to buy beautifully decorated ones or work very hard at making their own.

Worth mentioning is the fact that the ones I know don't wear them every day. These things are associated with costuming and Faire fun. They might be less enamored with these garments if they had to wear them all the time.
 
torture to show ownself more beautiful, a collateral damage for own vanity, sense which give to the women their incredible charm.
months of physical activity would be surely better, but the physical wellness, was a priciple missed in the time of the human history and reprised just during the first middle of XX century.
today a pair of leggings would be surely much few painful to wear :x3:
 
Well, we reenactors have to wear corsets to get the proper "look" of the period. A bra just doesn't look the same! However, it's important to have custom fitting, as an off-the-shelf corset will inevitably not fit and definitely be a torture. Many of us make our own, or turn to "Originals by Kay."

Those of us with "lower class" working impressions can get away with a corded corset, which is actually quite comfortable. I really can't wear a boned corset, because since my knee surgery (many years ago) I have to bend over from the waist to reach things on the ground--my left knee won't bend enough. And, at my advanced age, who cares? (At least that's as good an excuse as any!)

I keep hearing that corsets are wonderful for back support. Actually, they can lead to sore backs because people should be relying on their core muscles for support, not something artificial that lets those muscles atrophy.

In the heat of the day, we reenacting ladies sit in the shade conversing over projects (usually sewing). After all, only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun! (Although Noel Coward wasn't around yet.) We've also been known to repair to our tents for a bit of loosening and a lie-down. It also helps that 1860s clothing is all made from natural fabrics, mostly cotton or extremely lightweight wool.
 
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Four years ago I was working at Strawbery Banke in Portsmouth NH doing weaving demonstrations. It was Fourth of July and 98 degrees in the shade (literally). We are right on a big tidal river but that day was still, airless and relentlessly sunny. They brought out our *heavy* costumes with corsets, etc and suddenly the head of weaving said, "we are not sacrificing ourselves today." Best decision ever - during the day - which is a big event there - 3 different ambulances were brought in for patrons who keeled over in the heat.
 
There is a rational purpose for a corset, believe it or not:

It supports the bust (no bras in the 19th century). Most of us need this!

It provides the required (for the period) smooth line between bust and waist, glaringly absent when wearing a bra.

It can narrow the waist, but ladies were and still are advised not to overdo this. Those of us who are "fluffy" (euphemism for pudgy) can achieve a bit more waist narrowing without discomfort if we want. Those who are skinny won't be able to narrow their waists further. Don't be misled by the Hollywood (Gone with the Wind) version!

It provides vital support for heavy skirts and petticoats. Instead of their weight pulling just from the waistbands, the corset transfers part of that weight to the hips (pelvic girdle). This function is very similar to the hipbelt and stays on a modern backpacking pack (familiar to those who, like me, are "into" wilderness trekking).

Much of this info can be found on Kay Gnagey's website, http://www.originals-by-kay.com/corsetry/corsetry.htm
 
There is a rational purpose for a corset, believe it or not:

It supports the bust (no bras in the 19th century). Most of us need this!

It provides the required (for the period) smooth line between bust and waist, glaringly absent when wearing a bra.

It can narrow the waist, but ladies were and still are advised not to overdo this. Those of us who are "fluffy" (euphemism for pudgy) can achieve a bit more waist narrowing without discomfort if we want. Those who are skinny won't be able to narrow their waists further. Don't be misled by the Hollywood (Gone with the Wind) version!

It provides vital support for heavy skirts and petticoats. Instead of their weight pulling just from the waistbands, the corset transfers part of that weight to the hips (pelvic girdle). This function is very similar to the hipbelt and stays on a modern backpacking pack (familiar to those who, like me, are "into" wilderness trekking).

Much of this info can be found on Kay Gnagey's website, http://www.originals-by-kay.com/corsetry/corsetry.htm


I was hoping to hear from you, Mary Dee, thank you! And NH Civil War Gal, thanks very much! There's a handy looking gadget I'm guessing you're familiar with.

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I'll see this stuff and think " Reenactors will know... ". Have this idea you folks are a kind of walking history museum and talking web page.

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And the cover, maybe if the clothing doesn't cover all of it, like a V-neck typed blouse? ' Corset cover ;, from Godey's, I think.

Yes, the ' cheap ' corset sure looked the most comfortable to me, if one must wear one, right? Simple, brief, can't be a lot of lacing, and I'm sorry, a step UP on bras!
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Also found what you said about them being tough on your back interesting? And important, given Victorian imagery on female ' deportment', goodness. Read where some corsets forced an outline for posture- some ideal with elbows, shoulders, etc. in ideal, feminine outlines. Phooey! Sounded both unrealistic and painful to me, so thank you for verifying it probably was! Thanks for the ' real world ' feedback all the way around! And you too, @NH Civil War Gal !
 
There is a rational purpose for a corset, believe it or not:

It supports the bust (no bras in the 19th century). Most of us need this!

It provides the required (for the period) smooth line between bust and waist, glaringly absent when wearing a bra.

It can narrow the waist, but ladies were and still are advised not to overdo this. Those of us who are "fluffy" (euphemism for pudgy) can achieve a bit more waist narrowing without discomfort if we want. Those who are skinny won't be able to narrow their waists further. Don't be misled by the Hollywood (Gone with the Wind) version!

It provides vital support for heavy skirts and petticoats. Instead of their weight pulling just from the waistbands, the corset transfers part of that weight to the hips (pelvic girdle). This function is very similar to the hipbelt and stays on a modern backpacking pack (familiar to those who, like me, are "into" wilderness trekking).

Much of this info can be found on Kay Gnagey's website, http://www.originals-by-kay.com/corsetry/corsetry.htm
I just started wearing a corset under my costume. It makes a huge difference in line, and the costume did not feel so heavy. I learned one thing, I need to wrap my corset strings around to the front. I nearly had dripping ones after a quick trip to the loo!
 
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