Uniforms The cravat

major bill

Brev. Brig. Gen'l
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Aug 25, 2012
carvat 2.jpg


The cravat is often seen in Civil War photographs. The term cravat comes form the French word for Croat who started this trend. By the start of the Civil War the cravat was evolving in to the more modern bow tie. The basic difference was the cravat started at the front on the neck and both ends warped around the neck and was tied in front. Bow tie starts at the back of the neck and the ends tied in the front. They were worn in many forms during the Civil War. The term cravat is also used fro any Civil War bow tie.
 
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I try and avoid ties at ALL cost. I sure would not have worn one of these. If you see me with a tie on, I just came from a funeral.
 
The method of tying one's cravat was considered a fashion statement and the style changed over time. One way to tell the age of a photograph is to see how the man in a photograph tied his cravat. Older men often did not change to the new mode. Let us look at some pre Civil War modes of tying cravat.

A. Long tails hanging down.
b. Long tails hanging down, one over the other, the effect is like a modern four-in-hand tie.

crav 9.jpg
 
Now we move closer to the Civil War. Some Civil War soldiers adopted a devil may care cravat in an attempt to show they were to busy fighting or did not care about fashion to spend time on tying their cravat. Of course they took the time to put on the cravat and were in truth trying very hard to look fashionable.

E. Tails behind, with long tails (Note the tails could also be short)
F. Tails tucked in bow in front with the tails also tucked in the rear of the knot. Kind of a double bow look.
G. Tails in front of the bow.

crav 10.jpg
 
Today were wear four-in-hand ties for the most part and most men rarely wear bow ties unless they wear dinner jackets. but were owe our habit of wearing ties back to the 1600s. There are books that show 100+ ways to tie your four-in-hand ties. I only tie my tie 3 ways. How many ways do you tie your tie?
 
I've heard people today wonder why they are all wearing "bow ties" in period photos, but these were the ties of the era; I don't think the modern style necktie came into fashion until the late 19th century. The cravat was not something a soldier would typically wear while in the field, but my understanding is that it was considered socially correct when in mixed company back home, sort of like a vest, and was a typical piece of civilian attire. Not always worn by working class men out in the field though.

A few examples:

Lt. Col. Benjamin Franklin Carter.jpg

Lt. Col. Benjamin Franklin Carter of the 4th Texas Infantry.

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Unidentied Texas Confederate, ca. 1861.

tumblr_ni1n1na1In1rm9yhio1_1280.jpg

Missouri State Guard soldiers: Private S. W. Stone (left) of the California Guards and Private P. S. Alexander (right) of the Moniteau County Rangers.

4268679495_3cfd9a12d1_z.jpg

Jesse James

T=photo&CISOPTR=5190&action=2&DMSCALE=65&DMWIDTH=357&DMHEIGHT=468&DMX=0&DMY=0&DMTEXT=&DMROTATE=0.jpg

Private Joshua W. Whaley, Co. G, 34th Alabama Infantry.

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Portrait of an unidentified University of Virginia student who joined the Southern Guard, a Confederate company formed in Charlottesville which became part of the 19th Virginia Volunteer Infantry Regiment, c. 1861.

tumblr_n4pc24ta681r0h08no1_r1_1280.jpg

Sergeant John Emery

Joseph Sharp, 1849 gold miner of Sharp’s Flats.jpg

Joseph Sharp, 1849 gold miner of Sharp’s Flats.

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The term cravat comes form the French word for Croat who started this trend.

Isn't that most amazing?! I learned it last spring when I was in Dubrovnik, Croatia.
The Croatian mercenaries, who were extremely brave, brought that word to France in 1660. Their word for their bandanna worn around the neck was "hravatska" and it became fashionable to imitate these brave and dashing warriors and their habits. So this was the hour of birth for the cravat.
 
I try and avoid ties at ALL cost. I sure would not have worn one of these. If you see me with a tie on, I just came from a funeral.

I don't even own a tie (haven't in decades). If a place or an event requires a tie then it's out of consideration.

Not having to wear a tie or a suit was actually a big consideration when I decided on a career path. I ended up in a blue jeans profession where a nice shirt if in the office was all you needed.
 
I don't even own a tie (haven't in decades). If a place or an event requires a tie then it's out of consideration.

Not having to wear a tie or a suit was actually a big consideration when I decided on a career path. I ended up in a blue jeans profession where a nice shirt if in the office was all you needed.
your avatar wears one
 
A school tie is a compulsory piece of school uniform for secondary schools in England, when I was at school, they insisted that our ties were knotted using the Windsor Knot. The posh schools like Eaton and Harrow insist that the pupils wear either a bowtie or a white tie. Can you believe that this is the current Eaton Uniform, its like something out of Hogwarts. The uniform hasn't changed since the 1800s.
c763210d474a6e9ffe0cd11b769d38da.jpg
 
The term four-in-hand is of often seem in invitations, especally if military people are attending. For example " Dinner at 7 pm, dress is informal, suit and four-in -hand tie acceptable.

This tells a gentleman he should wear a dinner jacket (ie. Tuxedo) with informal white shirt and black bow tie, but men without dinner jackets may attend but should wear a conservative business suit and necktie. No sport jackets allowed. It also tell women that dinner dresses can be worn, but tea dresses are acceptable. There has been a trend in the last 20 years to wear tea dress and save the dinner dress for semi formal affairs.
 
I've heard people today wonder why they are all wearing "bow ties" in period photos, but these were the ties of the era; I don't think the modern style necktie came into fashion until the late 19th century. The cravat was not something a soldier would typically wear while in the field, but my understanding is that it was considered socially correct when in mixed company back home, sort of like a vest, and was a typical piece of civilian attire. Not always worn by working class men out in the field though.

A few examples:

View attachment 119791
Lt. Col. Benjamin Franklin Carter of the 4th Texas Infantry.

tumblr_nyuf4daobn1rm9yhio1_1280.jpg

Unidentied Texas Confederate, ca. 1861.

tumblr_ni1n1na1In1rm9yhio1_1280.jpg

Missouri State Guard soldiers: Private S. W. Stone (left) of the California Guards and Private P. S. Alexander (right) of the Moniteau County Rangers.

4268679495_3cfd9a12d1_z.jpg

Jesse James

T=photo&CISOPTR=5190&action=2&DMSCALE=65&DMWIDTH=357&DMHEIGHT=468&DMX=0&DMY=0&DMTEXT=&DMROTATE=0.jpg

Private Joshua W. Whaley, Co. G, 34th Alabama Infantry.

tumblr_ne0w09qC7h1rvifwwo1_500.jpg

Portrait of an unidentified University of Virginia student who joined the Southern Guard, a Confederate company formed in Charlottesville which became part of the 19th Virginia Volunteer Infantry Regiment, c. 1861.

tumblr_n4pc24ta681r0h08no1_r1_1280.jpg

Sergeant John Emery

View attachment 119800
Joseph Sharp, 1849 gold miner of Sharp’s Flats.

3355105f.jpg
That picture of Joseph Sharp has to be my favourite, I really enjoy the photos where the men have their tools of the trade with them. I have no idea why they would be photographed with their work tools but I'm guessing it has something to do with making a statement about how well they are doing, not everyone could read or write so it may have been a good way of letting the folks back home know what you are doing for a living and that they are healthy and managing just fine.
 
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