Simple patterns, please?

grace

Sergeant
Joined
May 5, 2018
Location
Crossroads of America
Dear all,

All right, I've spent a good bit of time combing through the other threads but...here goes another age-old question. If I just missed the thread, I am so very sorry!

What are some good, simple, reliable patterns to use, please? I simply cannot drape and cut. *cries into her pillow. O, for the skill to do so...

Here's a starting list (please do add more if you have patterns or questions!)

  • Authentic bodice pattern
  • Sleeve patterns and variations
  • Gloves (knit and otherwise)
  • Fitted cape/shawl
Any help would as always be so very much appreciated!
 
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Draping takes too much time. It works if you know how the pieces should look, but why re-invent the wheel when there are patterns out there? I’ve used The Fashion Historian, and Making History patterns. All commercial. ANd if you know how things should be finished, they work just fine. Past Patterns are quite nice, and pricey, but they include info on how things would have been made back in the day. So, nice..I’ll need to look in my sewing room for more.
 
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Dear all,

All right, I've spent a good bit of time combing through the other threads but...here goes another age-old question. If I just missed the thread, I am so very sorry!

What are some good, simple, reliable patterns to use, please? I simply cannot drape and cut. *cries into her pillow. O, for the skill to do so...

Here's a starting list (please do add more if you have patterns or questions!)

  • Authentic bodice pattern
  • Sleeve patterns and variations
  • Gloves (knit and otherwise)
  • Fitted cape/shawl
Any help would as always be so very much appreciated!

I can't help you with the patterns, but please don't cry into your pillow! It makes me feel sad for you.

:laugh:
 
I like Past Patterns, especially the older ones. The instructions are almost a manual on 19th century sewing! The newer ones have some faults in projecting the sizes, especially since a person's being larger in the bust doesn't mean she is larger in the neck. For any pattern, though, do make it up in cheap muslin and fit it (get help) before taking your scissors to the expensive fashion fabric Nobody fits the "ideal" proportions anyway!

Other pattern brands recommended by Elizabeth Stewart Clark are Fig Leaf (from Kay Gnagy), Laughing Moon, and Truly Victorian.

The one pattern I tried from Period Impressions, I'm sorry to say, had very sketchy instructions and lacked some important markings on the pattern, especially where to attach the sleeve to the bodice. While I hate to criticize and others may have used them successfully, I won't try any of theirs again.

I found it's best to trace the pattern onto newsprint or other paper, and use that, not the original, for cutting. Make the adjustments on the copy when you fit your muslin, leaving the original pattern unmolested. This is especially important if you change size over the years (which certainly has happened to me), or want to alter the bodice pattern for a different style (such as a darted bodice instead of a gathered one, or vice versa, or a different neckline).

In the workshop I took a couple of years ago in which we examined a lot of original garments in detail, I noted with glee that hooks and eyes were used far more for bodice closures than buttons. Often, buttons were sewn on simply as decoration, without buttonholes. Since I can't manage to produce a decent hand-sewn buttonhole, this was a lifesaving bit of information!
 
Note also that for the 1840-65 era, you don't need a pattern for the skirt, which is made with straight fabric panels. With cotton, you just calculate (several times), measure (several times), and then RRRIP! Very satisfying--if you've done the calculating and measuring properly.

For the Civil War era, you want your skirt to be approximately 160" to 180" in circumference. The last especially for a dressy dress or a ball gown, and you'll want to pleat instead of gather (gauge)at the waist. The first for a cotton "wash dress."
 
The Past Patterns gathered bodice pattern that I have has two kinds of sleeves--the coat sleeve (popular in the 1860s) and the bishop sleeve (although you'd want to add a cuff for the latter) that was popular from the late 1840s on (in case you want to use the same dress for an earlier period, as many of us Oregonians do).

While Elizabeth Stewart Clark's Dressmaker's Guide promotes draping, the alterations for various kinds of sleeves and necklines are very easily adapted from a commercial pattern. Just be sure to get help when fitting, and don't try to incorporate those changes into the original pattern--use a tracing.
 
@dixie1861, rather the reverse. :smile: And this is helping so very much...the 10+ hours of work on my first chemise, not so much.

@Mrs. V and @MaryDee, thank you for the variety of options! Your advice, as always, is so very helpful. I do have a follow up question: is it easier to figure out how to modify a gathered bodice pattern into a darted bodice, or vice versa?

I think I'm going to buy a Past Pattern bodice pattern and use The Dressmaker's Guide to work with it. I really need the shape of the bodice "handed" to me via a pattern. The underthings are doable with just the Guide, but the results...well, it is a good thing they will be underneath my dress! :giggle: Such a wreak from a looks perspective.

Thank you all again!
 
@dixie1861, rather the reverse. :smile: And this is helping so very much...the 10+ hours of work on my first chemise, not so much.

@Mrs. V and @MaryDee, thank you for the variety of options! Your advice, as always, is so very helpful. I do have a follow up question: is it easier to figure out how to modify a gathered bodice pattern into a darted bodice, or vice versa?

I think I'm going to buy a Past Pattern bodice pattern and use The Dressmaker's Guide to work with it. I really need the shape of the bodice "handed" to me via a pattern. The underthings are doable with just the Guide, but the results...well, it is a good thing they will be underneath my dress! :giggle: Such a wreak from a looks perspective.

Thank you all again!
Hmm..good question on the bodice. You might find fitting your muslin easier with a gathered bodice, as you can gather as loosely or tight as needed, and you can distribute them over a greater territory. I trace my patterns onto freezer paper, then use that pattern to try for a rough “fit”..before I make my muslin. Sometimes that works better than others! And sew your muslin on the largest stitch you machine has..that way you can easily pull them apart to use as pattern pieces for your “good” fabric. I’m lazy and use them as my lining. (After correcting the paper pattern.
 
I've only used the gathered bodice (gathered or pleated under each bust in front, and at center back) so am not too sure about the darts. I know the darts replace the gathers/pleats in front, and you'll need help fitting. I believe you just eliminate the fullness at center back for a darted bodice, but please don't quote me on that!

Since cotton dresses are normally sewn with a gathered bodice, I haven't tried the darted style yet. Since reproduction prints are available only in cotton, you can, of course, make a darted bodice with a dressier cotton. Some of them look downright silky! I don't plan to make any more dresses, since I'm getting a bit too creaky to attend most reenactments.
 
@dixie1861, rather the reverse. :smile: And this is helping so very much...the 10+ hours of work on my first chemise, not so much.

@Mrs. V and @MaryDee, thank you for the variety of options! Your advice, as always, is so very helpful. I do have a follow up question: is it easier to figure out how to modify a gathered bodice pattern into a darted bodice, or vice versa?

I think I'm going to buy a Past Pattern bodice pattern and use The Dressmaker's Guide to work with it. I really need the shape of the bodice "handed" to me via a pattern. The underthings are doable with just the Guide, but the results...well, it is a good thing they will be underneath my dress! :giggle: Such a wreak from a looks perspective.

Thank you all again!

Oh yay I'm so glad!! You'll have to show us how it turns out in the end!! :bounce:
 
Quick update: I just got my Past Pattern (701) today and little sister said that she'd help me out tomorrow to do over my striped dress. Just have to finish the chemise today and I will have everything for the fittings. I may be super excited about that. :giggle:

*determined expression. This one will be as accurate as can be! As soon as I have pictures, I'll share those as well. :smile:
 
Just remind Sis when she's fitting you: The shoulder seam should end up at the armscye behind (and lower than) the top of the natural shoulder--just to prevent your making the same mistake I did the first time around!

And, of course, the armscye seam extends well beyond the natural shoulder to achieve the dropped armscye. The combination makes the shoulders look wider (and the waist smaller).

The side seam of the bodice is also set farther back than on modern clothing.

https://annaworden.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/anatomyofadress.pdf
 
Quick update: I just got my Past Pattern (701) today and little sister said that she'd help me out tomorrow to do over my striped dress. Just have to finish the chemise today and I will have everything for the fittings. I may be super excited about that. :giggle:

*determined expression. This one will be as accurate as can be! As soon as I have pictures, I'll share those as well. :smile:

I'm excited to see the pictures!!
 
Quick update: I just got my Past Pattern (701) today and little sister said that she'd help me out tomorrow to do over my striped dress. Just have to finish the chemise today and I will have everything for the fittings. I may be super excited about that. :giggle:

*determined expression. This one will be as accurate as can be! As soon as I have pictures, I'll share those as well. :smile:
Can’t wait to see how things turn out for you. It’s nice that your sister is going to come and help. Remember, have fun!
 
So...after a very long time and much frustration...here are some pictures!

To be honest, this whole process was a bit of a nightmare. It started as a dress for a much bigger and taller woman. No worries; we'll cut it down.

And all the comments about farby sulter dresses came true.

Yards of serging...fudged gathers...stitches of all sorts...*pulls a face. It's good there was such a size difference. We had to cut through a lot. And someone thought mixing gathers and pleats was a good idea. *sigh!

We finally got it all to bits and matched it to a Past Pattern...and nothing lined up. Time to get creative.

Because we had the rough shape, little sister (who can think in 3D--this is pretty amazing. She's 14) was able to cut it as close to the pattern as we could and fit it from there. I'm tiny, so even the smallest size wouldn't fit worth a darn. We still have two more tucks to go, but I'm excited at where we are at now!

Apologies for the long read/story. I can't wait to finish and take it into the field this coming Saturday!

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So...after a very long time and much frustration...here are some pictures!

To be honest, this whole process was a bit of a nightmare. It started as a dress for a much bigger and taller woman. No worries; we'll cut it down.

And all the comments about farby sulter dresses came true.

Yards of serging...fudged gathers...stitches of all sorts...*pulls a face. It's good there was such a size difference. We had to cut through a lot. And someone thought mixing gathers and pleats was a good idea. *sigh!

We finally got it all to bits and matched it to a Past Pattern...and nothing lined up. Time to get creative.

Because we had the rough shape, little sister (who can think in 3D--this is pretty amazing. She's 14) was able to cut it as close to the pattern as we could and fit it from there. I'm tiny, so even the smallest size wouldn't fit worth a darn. We still have two more tucks to go, but I'm excited at where we are at now!

Apologies for the long read/story. I can't wait to finish and take it into the field this coming Saturday!

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YAY! And I love the fabric. I can’t wait to see the whole outfit. And I agree, cutting things down to fit is a pain!
 
I agree, cutting things down to fit is a pain!
Not as much of a pain as trying to size up, when the dress is too small!

Looking good so far!

When you sign in to http://www.thesewingacademy.com/, there are a whole bunch of articles and news notes that are not otherwise indexed and not in the Compendium section. I'm sorry I forgot about those earlier! Here's one on making over that el cheapo sutler dress (didn't work for me because of the incredible shrinking fabric): http://www.thesewingacademy.com/2018/02/merchant-row-make-do/

Some others that might help:
http://www.thesewingacademy.com/2016/01/working-with-patterns-what-should-you-expect/
http://www.thesewingacademy.com/2015/08/evaluate-patterns/

And this one which has been most useful to me!
http://www.thesewingacademy.com/2015/07/hand-sewn-buttonholes/
(Although I still favor hooks and eyes)
 
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