Reproduction 1840 Artillery Sabers

D.H. Hill

Private
Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Anyone know anything about the quality of DGWs 1840 enlisted artillery saber? (http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=1613) It looks good to me but I don't know much about swords and their pictures are very small. I like the price but it's low enough to make me cautious.
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I have one. While not fancy, it is serviceable. I would suggest a good coat of hard wax on the scabbard. it does not take much for rust spots to show up on the scabbard. It all depends on what you want to do with it. I purchased it for occasional use - about the only I will be using it is when we do the honor guard in April for our Lincoln Repose and Civil War Encampment at the Ohio State House. The rest of the time it hangs on the wall.

My son is now a Lieut. ( Section command at Shiloh this year) and most likely will soon be our battery captain . He is using my Dixie 1840 now but will be looking for something a little better ( along with upgrading his uniform) since he is moving up in rank.
 
They were sharpened on one side. Agree for the price it seems serviceable and DGW has been selling them for a long time. One product review on the website is from 2005 and nobody has anything bad to say about it. Being in TN, I have seen quite a few of these out in the field, too and the only thing I would suggest is take a file and remove the Made in India from that side of the blade. Although these swords were rarely taken out of the scabbard, even back then...
 
Thank you gents!
I have read that (not in America specifically) military sabers tended to be issued dull as drawing them from the metal scabbard would eventually dull the blade, but when conflict was expected the men would be ordered to sharpen them.

As I am not the Chief of Piece I wouldn't be wearing it in "combat" but wanted to pick one up eventually for guard duty, balls, and generally raising mayhem.
D.H.
 
Thank you gents!
I have read that (not in America specifically) military sabers tended to be issued dull as drawing them from the metal scabbard would eventually dull the blade, but when conflict was expected the men would be ordered to sharpen them.

As I am not the Chief of Piece I wouldn't be wearing it in "combat" but wanted to pick one up eventually for guard duty, balls, and generally raising mayhem.
D.H.
They were issued dull in 19th and 20th century militaries, but had to be sharpened before entering combat.

Back when I did military sabre, one of my friends had a service sharpened M1850 Staff and Field sabre. It was id'd to a certain regiment, but I can't remember which.

I've had quite a few European military sabers that were sharpened, but haven't seen many American swords and sabers with the blade sharpened in period.

That said, the myth that swords in the military were used as unsharpened clubs is pervasive and silly to me. How are swords supposed to be used in war if dull. It is true that they were only sharpened before engagement to prevent injury and wear on the blades however.
 
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Anyone know anything about the quality of DGWs 1840 enlisted artillery saber? It looks good to me but I don't know much about swords and their pictures are very small. I like the price but it's low enough to make me cautious...

If you'll compare these boat-anchors with an original, you'll quickly see the weight and proportions are all wrong. The supposed C-guard knucklebow isn't even the right shape, and the drag is ludicrously large. as I recall, examples of these I've seen have nickel-plated scabbards; originals were polished bare metal. I'd say do like I did when I joined an artillery unit and save your money for an original!

Here's a thread showing what these are supposed to look like: https://www.civilwartalk.com/threads/u-s-regulation-m-1840-light-artillery-saber.109437/
 
Well, my idea had been to do some defarb work. I can reshape the drag and other parts, polish off plating if required, and get some replacement parts for the handle. I found a place that sells very accurate grips and scabbards; might have to look around for an original knucklebow, as I haven't found anyone who makes good repros. In general I just don't like taking originals into the field (not the battle-field in this case, except maybe to be put on the limber) but I thank you for your suggestion, which I might end up taking anyway. I'm not in a rush.
D.H.
 
Well, my idea had been to do some defarb work. I can reshape the drag and other parts, polish off plating if required, and get some replacement parts for the handle. I found a place that sells very accurate grips and scabbards; might have to look around for an original knucklebow, as I haven't found anyone who makes good repros. In general I just don't like taking originals into the field (not the battle-field in this case, except maybe to be put on the limber) but I thank you for your suggestion, which I might end up taking anyway. I'm not in a rush.
D.H.
Windlass Steelcrafts makes a good replica of one.
Someone on these forums is selling one for 100USD.
https://sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/50655/sale-windlass-1840-artillery-sword

Here's a link to them new.

https://www.lawranceordnance.com/default/windlass-us-model-1840-artillery-other-rank-s-sabre.html

I'd go with this over the Dixie Gun Works model.
 
Well, my idea had been to do some defarb work. I can reshape the drag and other parts, polish off plating if required, and get some replacement parts for the handle. I found a place that sells very accurate grips and scabbards; might have to look around for an original knucklebow, as I haven't found anyone who makes good repros. In general I just don't like taking originals into the field (not the battle-field in this case, except maybe to be put on the limber) but I thank you for your suggestion, which I might end up taking anyway. I'm not in a rush.
D.H.
Sir, I agree totally with your thoughts on defarbing. Go for it. In my view, some of the same guys who would criticize you for an improper repro saber would, themselves, show up with gray beards and ridiculously fat bellies hanging over their belts. They might count the threads per inch in their uniform fabrics, but they can't make themselves young again.

Ergo, if you want to do your best to defarb your repro saber and carry it, I say: More power to you.

I realize I just kicked that re-enactor hornet's nest yet another time and I don't care. I'll stand by my remarks.
 
http://swordrestorationtn.com/
Forgive me if I used the term "good quality" improperly; I still have much to learn.

Hmm. The Windlass still has issues, but looks like it would be a little easier to defarb. While it is hard to turn down that sword at that price, the timing isn't too good. I'd rather learn more first rather than buying in haste. If anyone has anything else to add about this repro please do so.
 
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http://swordrestorationtn.com/
Forgive me if I used the term "good quality" improperly; I still have much to learn.

Hmm. The Windlass still has issues, but looks like it would be a little easier to defarb. While it is hard to turn down that sword at that price, the timing isn't too good. I'd rather learn more first rather than buying in haste. If anyone has anything else to add about this repro please do so.
I beat my Windlass against a tree and then cut a fence post to hell with it. They make durable mostly accurate swords. Only failed me when I ground the peen down and couldn't make a new grip :frown:
 
I saw one go for four figures at a recent auction that I am reasonably sure was a reworked French saber. Kept me from buying some other things at the same auction. I would almost prefer a good reproduction over an "original" I was uneasy about.
 
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