Musings of a Newbie. Hear Me Out.

LoisPauline

Private
Joined
Mar 27, 2019
Location
Spring Hill, Florida
I have stated in my two previous posts that I have had a love for the history of The Civil War since I was around 8 years old. That being said, I have not truly dug into the history until now. It is quite the overwhelming experience. I have had personal views changed by a single quote and my eyes opened to a world, culture, and people, that I can only state in simple terms, were some of the strongest I've ever heard of. The sheer will these souls possessed on a daily basis quiets my mind to all things petty and insignificant in my own modern life. I know I have yet to even take one layer off the top of this war, its people, and its history. So, I ask you to please take all of my words, as I am someone learning and eager, with an open mind. I am a thinker, as in all day - everyday. The following are musings that have been rolling around in my head for weeks now. Bear with me, I tend to ramble.

I began reenacting in January of this year and have taken to it with great passion. I'm sure my first thoughts of the gorgeous dresses and fabrics were the same as many other lady reenactors. I saw this romanticized view of Scarlett O'Hara (Whom, please forgive me, I have never ever liked but her wardrobe was seemingly dreamy) I wanted the flounciest most full gowns imaginable. Then I wore one and the impracticality crushed all my hoops and dreams, wait that's not right...HOPES and dreams. There we go. I am anything but a poser. I refuse to partake in a hobby without proper research of the components necessary to perform every task that I could possibly be called to do. I quickly learned of dress silhouettes, fabric type, etiquette, and finally the reality of it all.

I knew the South had little funds and many of the women had to care for the homefront. In my eyes how could fashion even be a concern to these women when quite honestly a battle could storm through their homestead the very next day and decimate everything. Their men were either gone fighting or dead and gone. I try to put myself in their place. Close my eyes and think, really think....how would I have handled that. Would I have spent what money and time I had on fabric and constructing a "visiting dress" or a "day dress"? Or would I have patched up whatever clothing I could find, including left overs of my husbands, cover myself to the best of my ability and get to work? My mind believes the latter had to have been a plausible occurrence.

A little background on this one train of thought. I posted a picture of myself in a group on Facebook wearing a camp skirt with petticoat and drawers. I wore boots, and tall socks. My top was a man's white shirt (also correct underthings minus the dang corset), authentic in quality as it belonged to my boyfriend when he was younger and smaller in size. I tucked it in and wrapped a brown leather men's belt around my waist with a brass Florida belt buckle. My hat was black wool and it had the blue cords around it that our entire unit is required to wear. I added a blue cameo to pin the side of it up. I was in camp. I refuse to wear a hoop around the camp fire. (I no longer have this picture. I deleted the post from the group it was in and have since gotten a new phone and lost those pictures which actually infuriates me)

I was ripped to shreds in this group. They were seemingly kind about their "corrections" of my ensemble but the most they could actually state was "They just didn't wear these items together then. This is not period correct." Granted my shirt was as authentic as you can get without being 150 years old, my skirt was definitely of correct shape/pattern and fabric (not the one I personally made in another of my posts). The hat I wore was wool. 100% wool. The cameo was a very well done reproduction. They all agreed that each piece on their own was fine but I was "farby" to put it all together. My question is....Why?

Why?

Because we haven't seen an actual CDV of a women wearing anything of the sort? Did the type of woman I'm trying to connect with even have the means to have her portrait taken? Maybe it is because no one had mentioned it in their travel journals or personal diaries. But my question is....why is it is so far fetched fora woman, whose husband is either dead or simply not home, to wear an ensemble such as this during this era, to complete work around the home/farm or even be seen in town wearing? Would she have been talked about...of course, but that doesn't necessarily matter. You do well with what you have during hard times. They questioned me, "Do you think you would have worn a man's hat outside if you had lived in this time?" I'm not 100% sure (because, how can you be?) but I'm fairly certain I would have. Especially if it were the hat of my dead/away husband whom I missed dearly. You're darn right I'd slap on a little frill and wear it until it fell apart.

Wives of soldiers in modern times are seen over and over again wearing their husband's belongings while they are away. Why would it be so outlandish to think of a woman doing so in the 1860s?

I'm truly not a rebellious person who loves to shake things up, however, there is a reality of war and destitute times that I believe some women, not all mind you, choose not to take into account when creating an impression. The unit I belong to is from a very poor part of Florida during the war - I find it hard to imagine any of the women having the grand and detailed fabrics that some of the dresses I've seen are made from.

This is my personal take on something that I am passionate about and it is the direction my heart has led me to do my impression. I feel I owe it to those who actually experienced the harshness first hand to do it correctly. I'm sure as I study and learn more my entire thought process could shift and I will welcome it as it happens!
 
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I have stated in my two previous posts that I have had a love for the history of The Civil War since I was around 8 years old. That being said, I have not truly dug into the history until now. It is quite the overwhelming experience. I have had personal views changed by a single quote and my eyes opened to a world, culture, and people, that I can only state in simple terms, were some of the strongest I've ever heard of. The sheer will these souls possessed on a daily basis quiets my mind to all things petty and insignificant in my own modern life. I know I have yet to even take one layer off the top of this war, its people, and its history. So, I ask you to please take all of my words, as I am someone learning and eager, with an open mind. I am a thinker, as in all day - everyday. The following are musings that have been rolling around in my head for weeks now. Bear with me, I tend to ramble.

I began reenacting in January of this year and have taken to it with great passion. I'm sure my first thoughts of the gorgeous dresses and fabrics were the same as many other lady reenactors. I saw this romanticized view of Scarlett O'Hara (Whom, please forgive me, I have never ever liked but her wardrobe was seemingly dreamy) I wanted the flounciest most full gowns imaginable. Then I wore one and the impracticality crushed all my hoops and dreams, wait that's not right...HOPES and dreams. There we go. I am anything but a poser. I refuse to partake in a hobby without proper research of the components necessary to perform every task that I could possibly be called to do. I quickly learned of dress silhouettes, fabric type, etiquette, and finally the reality of it all.

I knew the South had little funds and many of the women had to care for the homefront. In my eyes how could fashion even be a concern to these women when quite honestly a battle could storm through their homestead the very next day and decimate everything. Their men were either gone fighting or dead and gone. I try to put myself in their place. Close my eyes and think, really think....how would I have handled that. Would I have spent what money and time I had on fabric and constructing a "visiting dress" or a "day dress"? Or would I have patched up whatever clothing I could find, including left overs of my husbands, cover myself to the best of my ability and get to work? My mind believes the latter had to have been a plausible occurrence.

A little background on this one train of thought. I posted a picture of myself in a group on Facebook wearing a camp skirt with petticoat and drawers. I wore boots, and tall socks. My top was a man's white shirt (also correct underthings minus the dang corset), authentic in quality as it belonged to my boyfriend when he was younger and smaller in size. I tucked it in and wrapped a brown leather men's belt around my waist with a brass Florida belt buckle. My hat was black wool and it had the blue cords around it that our entire unit is required to wear. I added a blue cameo to pin the side of it up. I was in camp. I refuse to wear a hoop around the camp fire. (I no longer have this picture. I deleted the post from the group it was in and have since gotten a new phone and lost those pictures which actually infuriates me)

I was ripped to shreds in this group. They were seemingly kind about their "corrections" of my ensemble but the most they could actually state was "They just didn't wear these items together then. This is not period correct." Granted my shirt was as authentic as you can get without being 150 years old, my skirt was definitely of correct shape/pattern and fabric (not the one I personally made in another of my posts). The hat I wore was wool. 100% wool. The cameo was a very well done reproduction. They all agreed that each piece on their own was fine but I was "farby" to put it all together. My question is....Why?

Why?

Because we haven't seen an actual CDV of a women wearing anything of the sort? Did the type of woman I'm trying to connect with even have the means to have her portrait taken? Maybe it is because no one had mentioned it in their travel journals or personal diaries. But my question is....why is it is so far fetched fora woman, whose husband is either dead or simply not home, to wear an ensemble such as this during this era, to complete work around the home/farm or even be seen in town wearing? Would she have been talked about...of course, but that doesn't necessarily matter. You do well with what you have during hard times. They questioned me, "Do you think you would have worn a man's hat outside if you had lived in this time?" I'm not 100% sure (because, how can you be?) but I'm fairly certain I would have. Especially if it were the hat of my dead/away husband whom I missed dearly. You're darn right I'd slap on a little frill and wear it until it fell apart.

Wives of soldiers in modern times are seen over and over again wearing their husband's belongings while they are away. Why would it be so outlandish to think of a woman doing so in the 1860s?

I'm truly not a rebellious person who loves to shake things up, however, there is a reality of war and destitute times that I believe some women, not all mind you, choose not to take into account when creating an impression. The unit I belong to is from a very poor part of Florida during the war - I find it hard to imagine any of the women having the grand and detailed fabrics that some of the dresses I've seen are made from.

This is my personal take on something that I am passionate about and it is the direction my heart has led me to do my impression. I feel I owe it to those who actually experienced the harshness first hand to do it correctly. I'm sure as I study and learn more my entire thought process could shift and I will welcome it as it happens!

Excellent questions. I’m not a reenactor myself but I would think that a couple of things would have been going on. First, the social class of the woman to begin with. Second, the changing conditions as the war produced scarcities. I think that research on how women adapted to those conditions, especially those with few means to begin with, could be really interesting.
 
I think that research on how women adapted to those conditions, especially those with few means to begin with, could be really interesting.

Agreed! I believe this is going to be my focus for a bit. I was overloaded with the gowns and lace. They are gorgeous and there is absolutely nothing wrong with loving them and dressing in them at all. I just think I'm missing some importance only focusing on the fashion, you know?
 
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Cedar-Mountain-Va.-Family-group-before-the-house-in-which-Gen.-Charles-S.-Winder-C.S.A.-died.jpg


… My question is....Why?

Why?

Because we haven't seen an actual CDV of a women wearing anything of the sort? Did the type of woman I'm trying to connect with even have the means to have her portrait taken? Maybe it is because no one had mentioned it in their travel journals or personal diaries. But my question is....why is it is so far fetched fora woman, whose husband is either dead or simply not home, to wear an ensemble such as this during this era, to complete work around the home/farm or even be seen in town wearing? Would she have been talked about...of course, but that doesn't necessarily matter. You do well with what you have during hard times. They questioned me, "Do you think you would have worn a man's hat outside if you had lived in this time?" I'm not 100% sure (because, how can you be?) but I'm fairly certain I would have. Especially if it were the hat of my dead/away husband whom I missed dearly. You're darn right I'd slap on a little frill and wear it until it fell apart.

Wives of soldiers in modern times are seen over and over again wearing their husband's belongings while they are away. Why would it be so outlandish to think of a woman doing so in the 1860s?I
Hi LoisPauline; welcome to the forums!

As an admitted Civil War novice, your greatest problem is lack of familiarity with first-hand sources, one example of which is the wonderful photo above taken in August, 1862, on the battlefield of Cedar Mountain, Virginia. It shows a more or less "typical" Southern farm family who likely wouldn't have "splurged" on having their "likeness" recorded when there was food and so many other things to spend limited resources on; fortunately, the Union photographer visiting the battlefield only days after the battle recorded their appearance for them and also for us. There are many such things on which to base an "impression" - the trick is knowing where to look for them. In this, if you are persistent, the forums can teach you a great deal without having to be exposed to Facebook's unwashed masses. It may take you a while, but perseverance - and a good deal of selective study and research (but you already know that) - will out!
 
Just like today, women chose their own style, so saying you shouldn't wear this or that is just rather rude. Ordinary folks probably wore what ever covered them and what ever they had lying around. No one knows for sure what Miss Betsy from Pike wore on any given day so as long as it is period, or earlier, do your own thing and tell the other to go pound sand if they don't like it. Just remember to take the curtain rod out of Mama's portieres when making them over into a new dress! LOL
 
I remember reading of an Illinois soldier in Georgia who encountered a poor white farm woman who was smoking and dipping snuff at the same time. He asked where her husband was and she said with the rebel army. When he asked what she’d do if he were killed she replied she reckoned she’d marry a Yankee.

Now there’s a woman to portray.
 
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Hi LoisPauline; welcome to the forums!

As an admitted Civil War novice, your greatest problem is lack of familiarity with first-hand sources, one example of which is the wonderful photo above taken in August, 1862, on the battlefield of Cedar Mountain, Virginia. It shows a more or less "typical" Southern farm family who likely wouldn't have "splurged" on having their "likeness" recorded when there was food and so many other things to spend limited resources on; fortunately, the Union photographer visiting the battlefield only days after the battle recorded their appearance for them and also for us. There are many such things on which to base an "impression" - the trick is knowing where to look for them. In this, if you are persistent, the forums can teach you a great deal without having to be exposed to Facebook's unwashed masses. It may take you a while, but perseverance - and a good deal of selective study and research (but you already know that) - will out!

Great, great photo!
pareb
 
I have stated in my two previous posts that I have had a love for the history of The Civil War since I was around 8 years old. That being said, I have not truly dug into the history until now. It is quite the overwhelming experience. I have had personal views changed by a single quote and my eyes opened to a world, culture, and people, that I can only state in simple terms, were some of the strongest I've ever heard of. The sheer will these souls possessed on a daily basis quiets my mind to all things petty and insignificant in my own modern life. I know I have yet to even take one layer off the top of this war, its people, and its history. So, I ask you to please take all of my words, as I am someone learning and eager, with an open mind. I am a thinker, as in all day - everyday. The following are musings that have been rolling around in my head for weeks now. Bear with me, I tend to ramble.

I began reenacting in January of this year and have taken to it with great passion. I'm sure my first thoughts of the gorgeous dresses and fabrics were the same as many other lady reenactors. I saw this romanticized view of Scarlett O'Hara (Whom, please forgive me, I have never ever liked but her wardrobe was seemingly dreamy) I wanted the flounciest most full gowns imaginable. Then I wore one and the impracticality crushed all my hoops and dreams, wait that's not right...HOPES and dreams. There we go. I am anything but a poser. I refuse to partake in a hobby without proper research of the components necessary to perform every task that I could possibly be called to do. I quickly learned of dress silhouettes, fabric type, etiquette, and finally the reality of it all.

I knew the South had little funds and many of the women had to care for the homefront. In my eyes how could fashion even be a concern to these women when quite honestly a battle could storm through their homestead the very next day and decimate everything. Their men were either gone fighting or dead and gone. I try to put myself in their place. Close my eyes and think, really think....how would I have handled that. Would I have spent what money and time I had on fabric and constructing a "visiting dress" or a "day dress"? Or would I have patched up whatever clothing I could find, including left overs of my husbands, cover myself to the best of my ability and get to work? My mind believes the latter had to have been a plausible occurrence.

A little background on this one train of thought. I posted a picture of myself in a group on Facebook wearing a camp skirt with petticoat and drawers. I wore boots, and tall socks. My top was a man's white shirt (also correct underthings minus the dang corset), authentic in quality as it belonged to my boyfriend when he was younger and smaller in size. I tucked it in and wrapped a brown leather men's belt around my waist with a brass Florida belt buckle. My hat was black wool and it had the blue cords around it that our entire unit is required to wear. I added a blue cameo to pin the side of it up. I was in camp. I refuse to wear a hoop around the camp fire. (I no longer have this picture. I deleted the post from the group it was in and have since gotten a new phone and lost those pictures which actually infuriates me)

I was ripped to shreds in this group. They were seemingly kind about their "corrections" of my ensemble but the most they could actually state was "They just didn't wear these items together then. This is not period correct." Granted my shirt was as authentic as you can get without being 150 years old, my skirt was definitely of correct shape/pattern and fabric (not the one I personally made in another of my posts). The hat I wore was wool. 100% wool. The cameo was a very well done reproduction. They all agreed that each piece on their own was fine but I was "farby" to put it all together. My question is....Why?

Why?

Because we haven't seen an actual CDV of a women wearing anything of the sort? Did the type of woman I'm trying to connect with even have the means to have her portrait taken? Maybe it is because no one had mentioned it in their travel journals or personal diaries. But my question is....why is it is so far fetched fora woman, whose husband is either dead or simply not home, to wear an ensemble such as this during this era, to complete work around the home/farm or even be seen in town wearing? Would she have been talked about...of course, but that doesn't necessarily matter. You do well with what you have during hard times. They questioned me, "Do you think you would have worn a man's hat outside if you had lived in this time?" I'm not 100% sure (because, how can you be?) but I'm fairly certain I would have. Especially if it were the hat of my dead/away husband whom I missed dearly. You're darn right I'd slap on a little frill and wear it until it fell apart.

Wives of soldiers in modern times are seen over and over again wearing their husband's belongings while they are away. Why would it be so outlandish to think of a woman doing so in the 1860s?

I'm truly not a rebellious person who loves to shake things up, however, there is a reality of war and destitute times that I believe some women, not all mind you, choose not to take into account when creating an impression. The unit I belong to is from a very poor part of Florida during the war - I find it hard to imagine any of the women having the grand and detailed fabrics that some of the dresses I've seen are made from.

This is my personal take on something that I am passionate about and it is the direction my heart has led me to do my impression. I feel I owe it to those who actually experienced the harshness first hand to do it correctly. I'm sure as I study and learn more my entire thought process could shift and I will welcome it as it happens!
You are asking all the right questions and can tell how passionate you are and how much you want to get it right. I'm not much help with women's clothing but the best advice is keep doing your research and study period photos like the one James N. posted and your impression will come together nicely and you'll find your niche. And don't worry about the critics, Facebook is full of them.
 

In reenacting there is a history of military unit appropriateness. In your case, as a civilian, military unit appropriateness is not, well, appropriate. So you have every right to push back about "what was correct usage at the time." You are most correct in paying attention to authentic components of dress, to suppose that individuals were every bit as individual then as now. So many people back in the day weren't "authentic" in their appearance.

Half of the discussions here begin with a found exception -- an old tintype or account demonstrating some exception, even in military kit. Some use exceptions merely to justify wearing or playing with something they want to wear or play with, and that's what drives the nit-picking, the farby calls. Underlying the accusations is "If I can't do it than neither can you."

My advice is that if you have done your research on the components of your impression, no one -- that's no one -- has any basis to challenge that a particular individual wouldn't have appeared that way. This is just not to the same standard as discussions on military kit. Push back, or more usefully, ignore. This is a hobby.
 
You are most correct in paying attention to authentic components of dress, to suppose that individuals were every bit as individual then as now.

Precisely. This is what I believe I was trying to get at with my whole ramble.

They have a disease. It's called petulantis stitcha counteris.

Crackin' me UP!!

Thank you all for your comments. I got the justification I was hoping to find but also ammunition and help to continue to grow!
 
So sorry I missed your post from a few days ago. It's wonderful! Bet a gazillion bucks you're not alone, either. You're in terrific hands here with all the members who replied.

I hope you get comfortable being right because you are. We romanticize the stuffing out of the era when in fact women's fashionable clothing was worn by fashionable women. You should read Dix's recommendations on what nurses should wear- plain, unadorned brown cotton.

There's so much right in your post it's tough to answer. You have plenty of great answers already so for what it's worth- and to give anyone questioning you the facts-

-Hoops/crinoline were really contentious topics. They didn't last long, maybe 1858 to just post war. Dangerous ( women died alllll the time from fires and an inability to do anything in emergencies. Men detested them for how intrusive they were and a lot considered this now-romanticized symbol of the past to be just plain stupid.
- A lot of the outfits I've seen worn by women representing the past would pass for ball gowns 150 years ago.
- Normal women recycled everythinggggg, borders, sleeves, bodices, lace ( if they had any ). Godey's Lady's Book targeted upper class women who didn't have to recycle so I ' think ' a LOT of people get the wrong idea of ' what we wore '. One of the biggest sources 150 years later on the topic seems to be Godey's. Love it too, it's just not reflective of our population.

May or may not have around a gazillion photos of women, some in camp. Hang on! Just remembered our famous photo of a wife raising kids in camp. It's awesome. She has a hole in her sweater, too she was probably too busy to darn.
kids camp 31st pa.JPG
 
The easiest way to defend yourself against any "vipers" who are the main reason for discouraging new reenactors is by depicting a poor Southern gal near the end of the war. The photo @JPK Huson 1863 provided with the hole in a what could be a man's sweater and
"babushka" like headwear is a perfect example of women who are struggling to feed themselves and/or family! She even has men around to hunt for her food too!
I was delighted when one older woman at a local reenactment wore a beat up straw hat, worn skirt and blouse like you described and was barefoot proclaiming to be a poor farmer's wife. She had entire story to tell too! A lot of reenactment ladies want to sachet in hoops and act "holier than thou" to others just like they did in real life however UNTIL (just like in real life) they were patching their own clothes at the end of the war. Reading diaries and letters of the Confederate women (books on Amazon) you'll find stories of formerly wealthy women digging deep to survive. One instance (her name escapes at the moment I've read so many) was proud of her ability to make shoes out of cornstalks and another (forgot that one too-need to go back over my library) was happy to purchase an ill fitting old set of man's boots to put on her bare feet! Keep in mind many reenactors change characters so if it your desire to upgrade to a stylish woman at the beginning of the war you can eventually do that too! People may knock Hollywood but Ada Monroe's character near the end of "Cold Mountain" was sporting pants, a man's hat and her father's long coat as well as Augusta in "The Keeping Room" wearing a worn dress, man's boots and hat, and hanging hair which obviously in these movies the wardrobe person did their research beforehand. Think about poor Natalie Portman's character, predicting death without her hog, do you think she'd be able to run to the store for fabric with her sick baby to repair her torn dress or stitch it after torn by the rape, tie if no more thread, together? Vanity is useless when you or your children are starving!
I love when people approach me and have a desire to reenact and I tell them to do book research, see lots of authentic pics on You Tube too and try to avoid polyester and vinyl and just show up dressed to an event and be "eye candy" and walk around and learn more by observing. As women it's easier to go solo, even an older "mourning" character seen often admitted to me her black gown was light polyester but she plays it as silk and no one ever gives her flack. Why? Because she's confident in her character and the paying public doesn't want to come just to see other people dressed like them and love her knowledge of Victorian women in mourning and the protocol!
Even myself with my tailor made authentic heavy "drill" fabric riding habit and 4 petticoats (God sometimes I do envy the air-inviting hoop style dresses-lol) could be considered more of an 1859 or so style but as a Confederate spy it wouldn't have been easy to order the "latest fashion" in 1863 nor would I care when I'm on a mission to help win the war!
Please keep your passion intact (it's delightful), head held up high and brush off those who may make you feel discouraged with their so-called constructive criticism. Unfortunately some women truly fit the jealous gossip stereotype, especially at reenactments! I'm not saying to ignore any advice you hear...but do the best you can and find a "narrative" that fits your character to defend yourself is my advice. FYI- There is a NEW judgement free Facebook group titled "Mainstream Reenactors" you should join that I think may be helpful to you-I'm here to help with any questions if you need me! :wink:
 
OK, now I'm just curious- once started a thread trolling for information on what on earth brilliant things women came up with to counter shortages @Belle Montgomery . We see them in era accounts, like when a wedding was planned and without sources for any kind of celebration much less clothing to wear, local women donated their family linen. Bride wore tablecloths and runners all the way down to her drawers.

Clothing, medicine- now shoes from corn stalks? If we could pull it off without getting sidetracked into the same old contention we see all the time, it'd be crazy interesting. Herb lore was not that far in the distant past- quite a few women retained the knowledge and the black communities had incredible knowledge of it for instance. It's awfully rare to see some tragic event like this war that doesn't result in some small gleam of light.

So sorry to side track your thread, @LoisPauline ! Somewhere in files I have dozens of photos of women inside the war, happy to share although Library of Congress ( just one source ) has a Civil War section in their Prints and Photographs collection. Tags sometimes don't include ' lady ' or ' woman ', pays to browse without the search engine.
 
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