Mike Serpa
Major
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2013
How many mourning dresses had Mrs. Lincoln? Which did she wear to her husband's funeral? Not quite sure how long the mourning period was but I assume a woman might wear more than one dress during during her time of grief. Three of her sons died at young age. Would she a different dress to each funeral? Wear the same dress the entire time? Etc.
The first photo shows her in a dress I associate with the President's mourning.
"Mary Lincoln in mourning attire" - LOC. Note: Title devised by Library staff.
The skirt is said to have been worn when son Willie died and when the President died.
Mary Todd Lincoln's Mourning Skirt. Black silk skirt with flounces and ribbon ties, said (when exhibited in 1934) to have been Mrs. Lincoln's "second" mourning dress; a later identification label by Dr. Lattimer says she wore this both when her son Willie died in the White House in 1862 and again in 1865 after her husband was murdered. Mrs. Lincoln gave this dress to her friend Mrs. James H. Knowlton of Chicago. Somewhat faded; scattered rents and losses (mostly about the waist) but surprisingly good, considering its age and fragile materials. Lined with cotton fabric, apparently at a later date, for preservation. Sold for $5,975.00 in 2008. - HA
This one is Mary Todd Lincoln: Silk Mourning Dress
Mary Todd Lincoln: Silk Mourning Dress Ensemble. Four components of a mourning dress owned and worn by Mary Todd Lincoln. These include: 1) a silk corset. 2) a 38" cotton petticoat. 3) a 30" cotton petticoat with lace trim at bottom. 4) a 57" black silk dress with four round buttons on each cuff, sewn-on belt and overall pattern of leaves.
Mary Todd Lincoln spent much of her adult life in mourning, having three sons and a husband precede her in death. She was often photographed in mourning attire. This ensemble is part of a group of Mary Todd Lincoln items retained by the Fowler Family of Chicago. Mrs. Fowler was a neighbor and friend of the First Lady, receiving letters and mementoes from her, many of which are offered in this sale. We include a copy of a 20th century partial inventory and Letter of Provenance from a Fowler Family member which refers to this item ("dress"). Sold for $100,000 in 2026. - HA
What are you thought on these items? I think the first dress is drab and one I identify as more of a mourning dress than the fancier dress in the second and third photos. As long as a dress was black would it fit the bill? Post any photos you have of her in a mourning dress.
Extra super special bonus photo!
Mary Todd Lincoln's Black Lace Veil, worn on the night of the assassination, together with an authenticating note signed by Elizabeth Keckly, her noted black dressmaker, friend and confidante. Upon leaving Washington in May 1865 Mary Lincoln distributed personal mementoes of herself and her husband to a number of friends and favored staff; she gave the earrings, bonnet and cloak that she had worn to Ford's Theatre to Mrs. Keckly, a former slave whose book Behind the Scenes (1868) furnishes an invaluable glimpse into the Lincoln White House. Mrs. Keckly kept her various Lincoln relics until 1890, when she sold them to Charles F. Gunther. Present here is the bonnet veil, measuring about 18" x 26", woven in an intricate blossom and floral motif with a perimeter of undulating interwoven lines; it is slightly frayed in a few spots along the border, resulting in some small losses and loosened thread, but is otherwise remarkably well preserved considering its delicate nature and age. The veil is accompanied by an extraordinarily rare autograph of Elizabeth Keckly, signed to a small authenticating note (the text in an unidentified hand; no place or date) which reads "This veil was worn the night of A. Lincoln assassination by Mrs. Lincoln". A superior Lincoln relic, with an impeccable and distinguished history of ownership. Sold for $52,281.25 in 2008. - HA
The first photo shows her in a dress I associate with the President's mourning.
"Mary Lincoln in mourning attire" - LOC. Note: Title devised by Library staff.
The skirt is said to have been worn when son Willie died and when the President died.
Mary Todd Lincoln's Mourning Skirt. Black silk skirt with flounces and ribbon ties, said (when exhibited in 1934) to have been Mrs. Lincoln's "second" mourning dress; a later identification label by Dr. Lattimer says she wore this both when her son Willie died in the White House in 1862 and again in 1865 after her husband was murdered. Mrs. Lincoln gave this dress to her friend Mrs. James H. Knowlton of Chicago. Somewhat faded; scattered rents and losses (mostly about the waist) but surprisingly good, considering its age and fragile materials. Lined with cotton fabric, apparently at a later date, for preservation. Sold for $5,975.00 in 2008. - HA
This one is Mary Todd Lincoln: Silk Mourning Dress
Mary Todd Lincoln: Silk Mourning Dress Ensemble. Four components of a mourning dress owned and worn by Mary Todd Lincoln. These include: 1) a silk corset. 2) a 38" cotton petticoat. 3) a 30" cotton petticoat with lace trim at bottom. 4) a 57" black silk dress with four round buttons on each cuff, sewn-on belt and overall pattern of leaves.
Mary Todd Lincoln spent much of her adult life in mourning, having three sons and a husband precede her in death. She was often photographed in mourning attire. This ensemble is part of a group of Mary Todd Lincoln items retained by the Fowler Family of Chicago. Mrs. Fowler was a neighbor and friend of the First Lady, receiving letters and mementoes from her, many of which are offered in this sale. We include a copy of a 20th century partial inventory and Letter of Provenance from a Fowler Family member which refers to this item ("dress"). Sold for $100,000 in 2026. - HA
What are you thought on these items? I think the first dress is drab and one I identify as more of a mourning dress than the fancier dress in the second and third photos. As long as a dress was black would it fit the bill? Post any photos you have of her in a mourning dress.
Extra super special bonus photo!
Mary Todd Lincoln's Black Lace Veil, worn on the night of the assassination, together with an authenticating note signed by Elizabeth Keckly, her noted black dressmaker, friend and confidante. Upon leaving Washington in May 1865 Mary Lincoln distributed personal mementoes of herself and her husband to a number of friends and favored staff; she gave the earrings, bonnet and cloak that she had worn to Ford's Theatre to Mrs. Keckly, a former slave whose book Behind the Scenes (1868) furnishes an invaluable glimpse into the Lincoln White House. Mrs. Keckly kept her various Lincoln relics until 1890, when she sold them to Charles F. Gunther. Present here is the bonnet veil, measuring about 18" x 26", woven in an intricate blossom and floral motif with a perimeter of undulating interwoven lines; it is slightly frayed in a few spots along the border, resulting in some small losses and loosened thread, but is otherwise remarkably well preserved considering its delicate nature and age. The veil is accompanied by an extraordinarily rare autograph of Elizabeth Keckly, signed to a small authenticating note (the text in an unidentified hand; no place or date) which reads "This veil was worn the night of A. Lincoln assassination by Mrs. Lincoln". A superior Lincoln relic, with an impeccable and distinguished history of ownership. Sold for $52,281.25 in 2008. - HA