Learned I'm new owner of a C. Sharps 1863 carbine

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ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
I'm prepping to inlet the patch box. Anyone able to tell me how deep should be the box

What are the two small pieces In the pic? I believe the pic was from a '59, but my box stops at about 45 degrees. Maybe the spring is broken or an earlier year model design?

I have a second pic that's my replication pic. I just can't shorten the file name on my cell. Will upload tomorrow.
 

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ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Here's the complete view of a patch box on an old Sharps long rifle stock. Sad how badly aged it is, but I'll use this picture to replicate the woodworking/inletting. Could anyone provide dimensions on patch box depth, and gap between the box cutout to top/bottom/left/right? Thanks, Eric.
 

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Jobe Holiday

Sergeant Major
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Location
The Perpetually Frozen North
In the photo of the box with the parts in the box: There is a slotted head screw stuck in under the hinge, another screw loose in the box, a nipple, a coil spring, a long pin with a head, and something in the lower left end I can't make out. The coil spring and long pin are Lawrence pellet primer mechanism parts, you can see the guide pin on the head. Your box door should open 180 degrees, that is, it should lay flat on the stock when open. Perhaps you have something interfering with hinge?
J.
 

ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Nothing interfering, I just thought the position was tight at the 45 or 60 degree position, and didn't want to press it back further. It goes 180. Nice to know that. That long pin is what I probably need to fabricate. I bought a bunch of different sized lead pieces in the fishing department, and maybe with the right starting diameter piece I can use my soldering gun to heat it down to the right shape. What's the right term for that part - nub, piston, other?
 
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ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Tackled the German silver front sight piece work today. Made the shape on cardboard, copied it to the metal, ground it best I could with the 4 1/2" grinder, used 600 grit too long, drilled the 5/64" then 3/32" in the piece, found and ground the sides of an old nail, and then it was done.

Length was too long, but then I cut too much off. Not too noticeable, but I know it. When all else is done on her, I'll revisit the length. Maybe these pics and stock inletting pics, then that final wall mount pic will be it.
 

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ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
If anyone has a good to fair condition stock for this project, please send pics and price to [email protected]. I tried my best with my chisel set to inlet the patch box, but a few missteps with the contour work and I lost the proper fit. Besides, the stock was definitely not CW original, in that it had no cartouches (need those), and the top rear of the stock near the butt plate tang was oval shaped going forward, not right-angled as with all other stocks I've seen or touched.
 

ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
I've emailed the Iowa and Ohio CW museums in an effort to track down my 66934. There had to be a standard number of sequenced rifles that came off the assembly line and right into crates for shipment, right? How many rifles/carbines were shipped per box/crate?

Johnf42768 gave me the same infantry/company info back in October, based on his 4-volume SRS searches. My book had the soldiers' names.

Corporal Wm Langwell, serial 66902 in the 10th Ohio Cavalry, Company D.
Wm McKinney, serial 66953 in the 5th Iowa Cavalry, Company M
 
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ewmail15

Retired User
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Not a finished product at all, but best I can do at this time with available parts and novice skills. Tried to give it an aged look with Barrel Brown, but wasn't that good an effort. Applied over a dozen coats, following instructions. Inletting for the patch box on the repro stock was okay at best, but allowed me to have it looking like a real carbine. Still need original patch box screws. It's a respectable wall-hanger.
 

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