Just bought Musket

I pulled the barrel back out but could see nothing from that angle the rod would be hitting. I pulled the lock out but ramrod is below all that assembly. The only thing that could be stopping it is in the trigger guard assembly in the circled area which I was not able to get out.

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Fairly sure that with the barrel removed, and the lock removed, looking down into the wood channel where the barrel sits should reveal a "spoon" shaped spring that tensions the ramrod? Perhaps not on such an early musket? If so, that is often held into the stock furniture by a metal pin or similar attachment within the stock. That might be an area where debris or foreign bodies might accumulate and prevent your ramrod from seating fully within its channel? Hard to say...

Sounds like you are well on your way! There are one-piece rods that you could use to attach something like a patch or tow worm to. Some people like to use metal rods, others favor Delrin polymer plastic or similar. My musket range rod is all brass, which is a bit "wobblier" than steel. I got a reproduction all steel rod from Dixie GW for my original M1842 rifled and sighted .69, and snapped off the Minie/Burton bullet-shaped head on the first use. I've got an all brass one now for the replacement rod, and leave the original alone in its display....
 
I looked everywhere and couldn't tell without removing the trigger assembly what was stopping the ramrod. I do know it is metallic. It does seem odd to me if this is the proper ramrod why is it not sitting in its proper position? This musket will never be shot by me or anyone while I own it and I have no intentions of selling it. The barrel is very eroded around the nipple area. But I do want all the parts on it to be correct period. I understand over almost 200 years some parts may be changed out but I would like it to be as period correct as possible
 
Ramrod spoons weren't introduced until production of the M1840 started. The ramrod is either just slightly too long, or the ramrod channel has acquired some dirt or trash that has filled up the bottom a bit. The ramrod is antique, but it is not "correct" for the musket. I wouldn't bother with changing it though. It has probably been with the gun for a long time, and a correct ramrod will run $200 or better, and I would be hard pressed to justify spending that much money on an essentially cosmetic change on a gun of this value.
 
Ramrod spoons weren't introduced until production of the M1840 started. The ramrod is either just slightly too long, or the ramrod channel has acquired some dirt or trash that has filled up the bottom a bit. The ramrod is antique, but it is not "correct" for the musket. I wouldn't bother with changing it though. It has probably been with the gun for a long time, and a correct ramrod will run $200 or better, and I would be hard pressed to justify spending that much money on an essentially cosmetic change on a gun of this value.

Which one would be correct for the musket? I would think if it was hitting dirt I wouldn't hear a metallic clink where it hits. I'm not saying I would spend 200 for one but I would like to know which one is correct.
 
Which one would be correct for the musket? I would think if it was hitting dirt I wouldn't hear a metallic clink where it hits. I'm not saying I would spend 200 for one but I would like to know which one is correct.
I think you will find the book I recommended very valuable for reference and it will show you great photos of correct ramrods. I did check tonight and your rod should not be hitting anything but wood. There is a drift pin for the trigger guard but you should not be hitting that especially with the rod being 39" and still sticking out past the barrel. Line the rod up against the musket and see where the end is lining up and that might give us a clue.

As Grayrock says, I agree it may not be an original factory m1816 rod, but I would bet a decent sum of money it is original to this specific musket. This very well could have been a battlefield replacement. I would highly suggest you do not replace it. Remember a conversion musket by its very existence is a modified original. This ramrod is part of its life story.
 
I pulled the barrel back out but could see nothing from that angle the rod would be hitting. I pulled the lock out but ramrod is below all that assembly. The only thing that could be stopping it is in the trigger guard assembly in the circled area which I was not able to get out.

Odd, since it seems like you're describing where the ramrod retaining spoon (#14 in this M1842 schematic https://taylorsfirearms.com/media/c...feb9a07f25cc79b7c2e426c/1/8/1842_rifled_1.jpg ) would be capable of blocking the ramrod channel if it was (for whatever reason) squished down.
 
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I think you will find the book I recommended very valuable for reference and it will show you great photos of correct ramrods. I did check tonight and your rod should not be hitting anything but wood. There is a drift pin for the trigger guard but you should not be hitting that especially with the rod being 39" and still sticking out past the barrel. Line the rod up against the musket and see where the end is lining up and that might give us a clue.

As Grayrock says, I agree it may not be an original factory m1816 rod, but I would bet a decent sum of money it is original to this specific musket. This very well could have been a battlefield replacement. I would highly suggest you do not replace it. Remember a conversion musket by its very existence is a modified original. This ramrod is part of its life story.
I have attached some pics

This is where the ramrod is level with the end of the barrel.
Screen Shot 2021-08-13 at 7.27.36 AM.png




This is where it is hitting something metal forcing the rod to stick out about one inch.
Screen Shot 2021-08-13 at 7.27.59 AM.png



I am beginning to wonder if the barrel at some point was shortened maybe an inch due to some kind of damage. Just noticing the way it is not perfectly round at the end. This barrel is 41 7/8" from where the breech plug attaches to the end of the barrel. Would the ramrod sticking out the way it is affect the shooting of the gun in any way? Not that it matters, not shooting the gun anyway, just curious
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Have you tried removing the forward lock screw and then seeing if the ramrod will go in? I can't help but notice that the place where it stops in your photo above is about equal to where that screw passes through.
 
Have you tried removing the forward lock screw and then seeing if the ramrod will go in? I can't help but notice that the place where it stops in your photo above is about equal to where that screw passes through.
Am sitting here looking at it and that screw is a 1/2' above the rod, but will pull it today and see what happens.
 
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I have attached some pics

This is where the ramrod is level with the end of the barrel.
View attachment 410891



This is where it is hitting something metal forcing the rod to stick out about one inch.
View attachment 410892


I am beginning to wonder if the barrel at some point was shortened maybe an inch due to some kind of damage. Just noticing the way it is not perfectly round at the end. This barrel is 41 7/8" from where the breech plug attaches to the end of the barrel. Would the ramrod sticking out the way it is affect the shooting of the gun in any way? Not that it matters, not shooting the gun anyway, just curious
View attachment 410893
There should be nothing in the stock in that area aligned with the ramrod channel that is metal. Could there be a broken piece of a ramrod down in there?!?! Your rod should be going past that area almost back to the trigger. As I discussed earlier the M1840 model introduced a metal stop bar ahead of the trigger. Yours would not have this.

Many situations occurred where the crown of the barrel was damaged and the barrel would be cut shorter. The M1816 barrel should be 42" long which yours is only an 1/8" shorter so this would not account for the protrusion of the ramrod.

Out of curiosity, what sort of markings do have on your barrel? on the breech plug?

I am enjoying this thread and the speculation by the way!
 
Am sitting here looking at it and that screw is a 1/2' above the rod, but will pull it today and see what happens.
Obviously, that screw shouldn't be the problem, but how often have you done some troubleshooting on something only to discover that the problem was something that couldn't possibly be happening? Either way, it's a simple thing to check in order to rule it out.
 
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