Miniatures I need some advice on how to paint miniatures

I have not, I heard about them but have never tried it. How's it done?
You can buy them , but it's easy to make one . You need a shallow plastic box with a lid , a kitchen sponge and wet pallet paper . You can get the paper from art shops , but I see that some use parchment paper which is available at the grocery store . Add enough water to the box to get the sponge really wet . Put the paper on it making sure the paper gets wet but not soaked . Use the paper to put your paint on and to mix . The damp paper will prevent drying out and if you put the lid on it will stay good for a day or 2 .

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Here is another How To Question.

I primed my plastic Tamiya kit with primer from Model Master. I use it when I paint with enamel. However, when I tried to paint with my acrylics, the paint didn't seem to stick to the primer. Remember, this was my first attempt using acrylics. Later, while handling the kit, the paint seemed to have rubbed off in small spots.

Q: Can I prime my figure with Model Master's Primer?

What would you recommend for primer? Does Vallejo make a water soluble primer?
I use acrylic white primer and don't have any problems with paint sticking to it.
Perhaps your enamel primer, being oil based, was too slick for the acrylic to adhere to? Just a guess as I've not painted with enamel.
 
I use acrylic white primer and don't have any problems with paint sticking to it.
Perhaps your enamel primer, being oil based, was too slick for the acrylic to adhere to? Just a guess as I've not painted with enamel.
I was wondering that myself. I did have some spray Primer but it could be too old.

Will have to look for White Primer. Or test if I can paint without applying any primer.
 
I was wondering that myself. I did have some spray Primer but it could be too old.

Will have to look for White Primer. Or test if I can paint without applying any primer.
Your spray primer should be OK . I've never used Vallejo primer and those who build tank and planes ( like I do on occasion) don't seem to have the best results . The Tamiya primer I use is lacquer based and adheres to the figure very well . If your primer has any gloss to it , you may have problems with acrylics adhering .
 
I purchased a set of Vallejo acrylics "Rust, Stain & Streaking" which is selected for painting rust on tanks, etc. Just have a question. Included in the set are three bottles with BLACK tops and the side has a special label:
Model Air #71.130 Orange Rust
Model Air #71077 Wood
Model Wash (no Number ID)

What is the difference with these bottles? At first, I thought they were meant to used with an air brush. The instructions has a example of how to apply these so it does say to apply the 70.130 Orange with a stumping brush. It also described using a wide damp brush to stump and blend. What is "stumping"?
 
Model air is thinned to use with an airbrush . You can brush paint special effects such as weathering and rust . I think by stumping they might mean what I call stippling. I think they are talking about ways to blend to avoid are hard edge . On thinned acrylics you can blend the edges to soften them while they are still wet . It does take some practice . Model wash is a very thin paint blend that is spread over a model to show up recesses such as panel lines on aircraft and details on tanks . Acrylic washes do not perform as well as solvent based washes such as oils and enamels . I believe figure painters use washes on small scale figures such as war gaming pieces .
 
Model wash is a very thin paint blend that is spread over a model to show up recesses such as panel lines on aircraft and details on tanks . Acrylic washes do not perform as well as solvent based washes such as oils and enamels . I believe figure painters use washes on small scale figures such as war gaming pieces .
Now you tell me. I am having to relearn some techniques. If I dilute the acrylic paint to blend in the shades, then it will run down into the crevices.
I'm still not sold on what advantages there are with acrylics. I plan to use them on another project and see what results I get.
Thanks for the comments.
 
When you dilute to blend you have to make sure there isn't too much paint on your brush . When you are ready to apply the highlight or shade , touch the brush onto some paper towels to remove the excess . Then you will have much better control . You want to do shading and highlights in layers with diluted shades . This sounds like it will take a long time , but it doesn't because the paint dries so quickly .
 
Now you tell me. I am having to relearn some techniques. If I dilute the acrylic paint to blend in the shades, then it will run down into the crevices.
I'm still not sold on what advantages there are with acrylics. I plan to use them on another project and see what results I get.
Thanks for the comments.
I will try to post a few pictures this week to show the basic technique .
 
Now you tell me. I am having to relearn some techniques. If I dilute the acrylic paint to blend in the shades, then it will run down into the crevices.
I'm still not sold on what advantages there are with acrylics. I plan to use them on another project and see what results I get.
Thanks for the comments.

I had to look up what a "Stumping Brush" is. I never did find it exactly as it pertains to painting, it seams like it's a technique used for blending charcoal pencil drawings. So based on that, it leads me to believe that they meant a blending brush as Kurt G suggested.

If you're diluting paint to the degree where it runs down into crevices, then I think you're using way too much water.
Here's a few links on how it's done:



And you can always check out videos on You Tube.
And If........we ever have our "Meet and Greet" at Shiloh this year, I plan on attending and if you'll be there, I'll bring my paints and we can have hands on night of figure painting.
 
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And If........we ever have our "Meet and Greet" at Shiloh this year, I plan on attending and if you'll be there, I'll bring my paints and we can have hands on night of figure painting.

Brilliant news and what a great idea . If you need something to paint as a demo I can bring some of my Flat figures along if you like. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
And If........we ever have our "Meet and Greet" at Shiloh this year, I plan on attending and if you'll be there, I'll bring my paints and we can have hands on night of figure painting.
I would like to watch. I need good lighting etc to paint. I sure plan to be there. I was on the planning committee for it as I live only 75 miles away. I'm not doing much in the way of planning. I just wanted to act as a Go-Fer. I also have a Red Neck Pass in case anyone needs a lift somewhere.

BTW, I was going to post on your other thread about Boonville. The anniversary of the battle it in 2 days.
 
Brilliant news and what a great idea . If you need something to paint as a demo I can bring some of my Flat figures along if you like. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
I would like! And I bet others would too!

I would like to watch. I need good lighting etc to paint. I sure plan to be there. I was on the planning committee for it as I live only 75 miles away. I'm not doing much in the way of planning. I just wanted to act as a Go-Fer. I also have a Red Neck Pass in case anyone needs a lift somewhere.

BTW, I was going to post on your other thread about Boonville. The anniversary of the battle it in 2 days.

All my painting stuff is portable, so we'll just have a painting party in the motel lobby one night,,,, or two.
And thanks for the reminder of the First Battle of Boonville. You post something, and I'll try and post some modern day pictures.
 
And thanks for the reminder of the First Battle of Boonville. You post something, and I'll try and post some modern day pictures.
YOU, sir, are the expert. I was hoping to hear more about that area and my long lost possible ancestor Hannah Cole. :smile coffee:
 
YOU, sir, are the expert. I was hoping to hear more about that area and my long lost possible ancestor Hannah Cole. :smile coffee:
I live on property she once owned, and if you like, I can post a picture of where her cabin was. If I can remember, I'll bring some of the little figures I'm working on for her fort diorama when we meet at Shiloh. I have a pretty good idea of what her fort looked like.
I'm looking forward to meeting you and seeing R. Britt again. (note-if R Britt starts drinking alcohol, he'll start singing show tunes, like "My Fair Lady" and "Oklahoma" - he does do Oklahoma pretty good though).

It's a small world isn't it? I live on the property that your possible ancestor owned. You live in a town that my g g grandfather lived in in '62 & 63. He rode with the 7th Ill. Vol. Cav. and took part in Grierson's raid. And you and I are making plans to meet later this year.
 
It's a small world isn't it? I live on the property that your possible ancestor owned.
I was greatly exaggerating. I am interested in that connection and the Zeralda Cole connection. But my lineage comes through Virginia, North Carolina and South Carolina, when they leave for Mississippi in the ~1830's.
 
I was greatly exaggerating. I am interested in that connection and the Zeralda Cole connection. But my lineage comes through Virginia, North Carolina and South Carolina, when they leave for Mississippi in the ~1830's.
I'm also interested in the possibility that connection between Hannah (Allison) Cole and Zerelda (Cole) James exists through marriage. I've got the ancestries for both families, I just need a little time to look through them. I'm very distantly related to the James family when both of our families lived in Virginia.
 
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