Flag Fabric

[CMWinkler]

Understanding the fabrics and sewing techniques used to make American flags is an essential part of identifying and evaluating antique American flags. New collectors, and even experienced collectors, may have difficulty differentiating between different fabrics, especially if they are blended. Forensic examination of flags, to the level of examining the fibers of the fabrics themselves, and the threads used to sew the flags, helps identify the period of the materials used and usually is a good indicator of the period of a flag (though not necessarily, in the case of a forgery).
Wool

Wool is an animal fiber produced from spinning the hair of sheep. As a protein-based fiber, wool that is burned exudes the smell of burning hair. Wool flags generally feel coarse and the weave of wool fabric is generally looser than cotton or linen, and certainly looser than silk. Wool is chosen for flags because of its excellent ability to withstand water. Since it is a product of natural animal hair, it doesn't rot as readily as vegetable fibers like cotton or linen. Wool over 200 years old can still be vibrant and supple. Moths do tend to feed on wool, and many holes in wool flags are due to mothing, especially with flags that are stored for years in attics, barns, garages and basements.

More: http://www.rareflags.com/RareFlags_Collecting_Fabrics.htm

 

[CMWinkler]

Bunting of the Army of Northern

Virginia Battle Flags

A Federal soldier who examining the captured battle flags after the repulse of Pickett's Charge at Gettysburg described what he saw: "These 'Rebel' flags were mostly homemade affairs like a bedspread, of pieces of muslin sewed together, and even flannel, calico, and muslin together. Torn by battle, dirty, and cheap looking, no wonder our boys designated them 'rebel rags.' Sewing on the letters made the inscriptions. Some were more pretentious; when new, no doubt more agreeable to view.Some had a regimental designation only.Seven had the names of battles inscribed on them including among them Frazier's Farm, Malvern Hill, Manassas (Second Bull Run), Sharpsburg (Antietam), Harper's Ferry, Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville."
This flag we know as the Battle Flag of the Army of Northern Virginia comprised a red square with a blue St. Andrew's cross outlined in white, with 12 or 13 stars.This is also incorrectly known as the Southern Cross, although this upright, like the St George's cross, not diagonal.This flag served as the principal battle flag of the ANV from 20 November 1861 until the surrender at Appomattox . This was not the banner most widely flown and many Southern men fought and died without ever seeing or marching under it.
When the United Confederate Veterans officially adopted as its emblem the battle flag carried by most of the Army of Tennessee during 1864-5 it dooming to obscurity most other flags.(The AOT battle flag is a rectangular version of that of the ANV). Thus by the end of World War II the ANV battle flag was largely forgotten.It's revival started at Southern Colleges during their American football games following this by those opposing the Civil Rights movements during the 1950-60's.
The Richmond Depot The Richmond Clothing Depot had been established in late 1861, to manufacture uniforms, shoes, accouterments and flags for the troops of the ANV, and later for the Department of North Carolina.It "employed in this depot about 60 cutters and trimmers and 2,000 women to make the clothing, mostly wives and daughters of absent soldiers in the field and the poor of our city."The depot was not large enough to have the workforce in house so the women came to the depot and picked up the uniforms and flags in kits to take home to sew together return finished products to the depot to receive their payment.

More: http://home.freeuk.com/gazkhan/blank_bunting.htm