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CSS Arkansas 1/96th scale resin model build (2018)

Discussion in 'Civil War History - The Naval War' started by Tut11, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    I have started the CSS Arkansas resin model and will post images and updates here for those interested in how I'm putting her together. A lot of painting for this one as I have Confederate navy personal and the interior which I am also adding. The 1/600 batteries and the Hunley are on hold as I wait for parts to come in, so I have time to start a new one. :happy:

    I'll be adding two of the lifeboats along with a actual planked hull in American cherry for a nice detailed look. I'll be doing the deck also in oak for definition and detail. This one I'm figuring will be taking about 6 months to complete.

    Here's a couple of image's of a completed one which is from the same kit of Williams at Cottage industries. Also a image of the metal parts which come with the kit, which all have to be painted too.

    upload_2018-2-13_16-9-53.jpeg

    upload_2018-2-13_16-10-14.jpeg

    upload_2018-2-13_16-10-56.jpeg
     
    ErnieMac, 8thFlorida, grace and 29 others like this.

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  3. mofederal

    mofederal Captain

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    That's a great looking model. I will be waiting for your finished model. Thanks for posting this @Tut11.
     
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  4. 7th Mississippi Infantry

    7th Mississippi Infantry Lt. Colonel Forum Host

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    Keep us updated on your build. :thumbsup:
     
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  5. OwenEgan

    OwenEgan Corporal

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    Thanks for posting.
     
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  6. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    Basic resin kit which is approx. 24" in length. (Hunley is at the back ) Clean up and sanding to fine tune resin which takes awhile. This resin kit has quality molding as some of the resin kits I have put together in the past were horrible to work work with. C.I. always has great resin molds and have never had a problem with them as other company's in the past. Main ship is 6 parts, the hull is extremely detailed and will make planking it a breeze. I have chosen to plank the hull in American black walnut instead of American cherry. Should have a better contrast for her, I will use pure Tung oil when model is complete for the water line planked hull.

    As all resin kits this one was washed with warm soapy water and dawn detergent before sanding and cleaning. After all sanding and cleaning will be washed again. This makes sure that any surfaces to be painted are prepped and no oily residue is left from the cleaning and molding process. Also guarantees a solid bonded surface for all painted parts, regardless of paint types used.

    Tools used for cleanup are to the right of the model parts.

    1) Basic nail file with large git and small grit (Cheap)
    2) 4 mini diamond files (cheap)
    3) Stick file with medium and fine surfaces (Cheap)
    4) Hand drill (Cheap)
    5) #11 blade razor knife (Cheap)
    6) Dremel tool with diamond tear dowel (not shown) (expensive)
    7) Clean and prep parts (10 hrs)

    Some modelers use sand blocks for speed, I like to take my time and detail the parts out to fine tune each one for assembly and painting detail down to the mm scale. This always makes sure the model is in perfect condition for displaying when totally completed. Also makes sure all parts fit tightly together for a proper gluing seal. One resin kit I had for a star ship was so badly warped and cluttered with resin it took me 2 months for cleanup! Least to say I never bought another one, the manufacturer went out of business so I couldn't return it or get another one. Case in point...... always deal with reputable companies when dealing with resin kits. C.I. is one of the best in my opinion for Civil war historical models.

    Remember models are actually a work of art from the modeler to produce. A kit can be done many different ways per what the modeler is seeking to produce, another fine point is you also produce family heirlooms. If you have children it is also a wonderful way to introduce them to creativity and quality time spent together. Teaches them basic engineering and mechanical processes with patience along with pride in accomplishment. Plus it's fun! With computers trying to taking over our children's lives this type of activity I feel is extremely important.

    Parts in process of cleanup:
    upload_2018-2-15_10-22-1.jpeg

    Questions.....please feel free to ask, this kit is expensive at $249.00 plus shipping so is not for the novice modeler. C.I. has many historical kits, ranging from $29.99 and up. For all stages of a modelers experience.
     
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  7. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    Here's the way I organize the small parts with my boat kits. For my larger 36"-40" plank on hull boats like the Vasa (http://www.modelships.de/Wasa/Photos VASA.htm) I use about three to four of the part trays which are very inexpensive. These help in keeping parts separate and when painted keep them clean and ready to go for installation. To protect the smaller parts when painted I separate them with paper towels when there dry and layer them in each compartment.

    upload_2018-2-16_10-21-58.jpeg

    This kit has some very mice cannon tools to go with it, Here's one called roller hand tool and this is the only image of one that I know of from the CSS Georgia wreck site:

    upload_2018-2-16_10-25-15.jpeg

    When I have the tools painted I'll image them together for a comparison for others to enjoy.
     
  8. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    Here's how I paint many small parts at one time. This is toothpicks put under small hair clips then inserted into a piece of Styrofoam. Very inexpensive and gives you multiple hands and a drying location which can be moved out of the way to work on other parts as those dry.

    upload_2018-2-23_20-36-22.jpeg

    95% of the metal parts are cleaned and ready for painting also, I will use my multiple hands above to paint away over the next week or so.
     
  9. rebelatsea

    rebelatsea 1st Lieutenant

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    I wish I'd learned that trick when I used to paint my models !
     
  10. DixieRifles

    DixieRifles 1st Lieutenant

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    I call that the artist's interpretation.



    Gulp!!

    But then I spent more money on my scratch-built 1/6 scale cannon after all the trail and errors.

    Post photos of your progress as many modelers are interested in Tech tips and new products.
     
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  11. DixieRifles

    DixieRifles 1st Lieutenant

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    I hope you dont mind me posting this here since wevare talking about Modeling and not history. I was cleaning out my garage and found my plastic kit model of the CSS VIRGINIA. This was the First plastic kit that I built---and completed. I usually built model airplanes but didnt finish them before they were lost in action. My 9-year older brother helped and may have rigged it. You can see the excess glue. And No paint at this age.
    I was probably 10 years old OR likely a few years younger.
    IMG_6183.JPG
    A current photo of the model with a kit of a Russian HIND helo---about 20 years old. Since that first model, all my kits have been Airplanes.
     
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  12. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    That's a pretty rare old kit. Do you remember the maker....Revell? Whats the size of that one? Thanks for posting always looking for information on these older kits of Ironclads, sometime a couple will pop up on Ebay.
     
  13. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    Here's a extremely rare kit which I was lucky to get on Ebay, in doing the research this kit is probably the last one in existence and it's a hard decision to build this one or not. @rebelatsea pretty much convinced me to not and moth ball it for my family to sell in 20 years. She dates to 1960 the bad part is all the directions are in french. Nice part is it does have all the original plans with it and 95% of the fittings. The kit was found in New York at a garage sale which was bought 5 years ago, the information was provided by the seller. This rascal wasn't cheap, but is one of the earliest wooden kits (plank on hull) of the steamers when they first started to appear in the early 1800's. This is a huge ship kit (38") and was very surprised of the size once I received it. I could build from scratch using just the plans, that would take a year or more plus all the fitting parts would have to be hand carved or I mold the existing ones. The lumber would have to be ordered and that would be very expensive, the kit comes with cherry and many other types of nice hardwoods which aren't cheap. But "What a beauty".

    Sorry this isn't civil war related, be nice to find a old steamer wooden kit of a confederate ship. There are a couple but they are newer plank on hull kits. My research hasn't tuned up one dating to the 1950's or 1960's yet but there is hope one will be found like this one was.

    upload_2018-2-26_2-35-13.jpeg
    upload_2018-2-26_2-36-37.jpeg
     
  14. DixieRifles

    DixieRifles 1st Lieutenant

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    Im sure it is a Lindberg model. I can google a kit that includes the Monitor but my kit was just 1. Probably 1/250 scale. Less than 11 inches.
    Im sure I bought this kit about 1961.

    I would be willing to part with it. Ive sold some of my and my bro's old airplane models on ebay. I was surprised that there are collectors who will buy them as is and may make a few repairs before displaying them.
     
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  15. DixieRifles

    DixieRifles 1st Lieutenant

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    Might be a good idea.
    I bought a kit of an Eastern Airlines Lockheed Electra for $1.29. I stored it 35+ years. Then someone explained the manufacturer changed the mold to produce a kit of Navy Lockheed P-3. I sold the kit for about $200.00. A plasic kit!!
    Of course the value can drop if the Russians cranks up goes production again. That happened as US companies sold molds to Russian companies. American kids dont buy plastic models anymore.
     
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  16. OwenEgan

    OwenEgan Corporal

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    I was expecting a lot more parts for the hull and superstructure. I suppose it's easier to set up this way?

    I had a number of those Lindberg Monitor and 'Merrimack' kits I used to play with them in the bath so they tended not to last too long :byebye::cannon:.

    I used to have a few old Irwin Allen kits that, if I had kept hold of them till now, would have been worth a bit.
     
  17. Malingerer

    Malingerer 2nd Lieutenant

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    Beautiful work Tut - keep up the good work and please keep posting as you make progress.
     
  18. kdsanders

    kdsanders Private

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    Great looking model.
     
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  19. 7th Mississippi Infantry

    7th Mississippi Infantry Lt. Colonel Forum Host

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    I don't think many kids anywhere buy plastic models these days.

    The current market is for us old folks.

    The manufacturers understand this fact. They understand our interest in these subjects, our love for the nostalgia of "building" models . . . and the fact our age group normally has more disposable income to spend on their products.

    You're right about that.

    Last month I bought a 1/72 scale kit of a Lockheed model 12 Electra Junior, manufactured by a Czech Republic company.
    I'm embarrassed to say how much I paid for it, but it's an exceptional quality kit. Actually it was a very limited run, so I'm sure that determined the price.

    As I plan to build it with the markings of 1943 Royal Netherlands Air Force VIP transport, I had to order the decals from a Dutch company.

    The decals cost more than Lockheed kit !

    What's the "saying" about men & boys and the price of their toys ? :whistling:
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
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  20. Booner

    Booner Sergeant Major

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    First, I admire your talent and skill very much.
    I paint historical miniature figures, but I basically use the same tools as you. I found popcycle sticks very useful. Glue various grades of sandpaper to them and your wife won't get mad at you for using her fingernail boards, plus you can customize there size to fit in those tight areas.

    What type of paint do you use? And do you ever shade, dry brush, or wash an area to bring out more detail?

    I agree with what you say about getting kids involved. My son started painting along with me when he was five. By the time he was 13 he was winning contests. I think one reason kids don't build models anymore is due to the price. Kits that cost $1.50 back in the day are now $20-$30.
     
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  21. Tut11

    Tut11 Corporal

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    Thanks; glad your enjoying them.

    The "Popsicle" trick is a good one, nice. I buy the finger sanding boards and the sanding sticks, I'll remember the popsicle, that will come in handy in the future.

    I use model masters, testors enamel and some basic latex paint, I had a nice air brush system but it had gotten lost in moves. I plan on getting another one soon. I have used wash before for some larger models with fairly good applications. Dry brush works well also for weathering individual parts along with the shade. I try to keep the resin models as close to original colors as possible, one trick is to use a Brillo pad after you have applied a final coat of paint for the resin or plastics, just do it lightly and it produces some great weathering effects. But weathering is a art you have to acquire imho, I have goofed up some models by weathering and went back to the drawing board to finish them out. :smile:

    The wooden plank on hull kits are mainly done in wood oil then testors enamel or basic latex for some of the painted detail figurines or fittings. One nice thing about basic latex is if you don't like the application it's very easy to remove and start over. When you have a model completed I have also found with basic latex to spray a fine light coat of sealer over the whole model which helps the colors to stay vibrant.

    When it comes to the costs of the kits I have seen some really great deals on Ebay for model lots which broke down to 2 to 5 dollars apiece with 6 to 15 kits in the lot, just have to be on the look out for them. Basically plane and car kits is what I have seen. I've seen some double and triple plastic ship kits very reasonable also.
     

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