Baby It's ( Still ) Cold Outside

These are all so beautiful and fascinating! How could they even move in all that?

By the way, did anybody notice the abundance of beaver and otter? Not to throw a wet blanket but those stylish muffs and capes didn't bode any good for Native people sitting where the beaver was! Might as well been sitting on the gold mine. Hudson Bay Company.... :x3:
 
Too cool thank you, so that is what is up with these? Yes, did not notice- and now that you mentioned it the images are different! Little silly not to have noticed since her entire veil has been arranged over her face.

Bet I can't find it at this moment- this explains an image which has always baffled me! One of these- 4 images like this supposedly the same on a sheet. It's a shot of a wharf, Pamunkey, supply ships, etc., soldiers on shore. There's one man bathing in the water, right under the dock. Everything else in the images remains the same- doesn't move- this man is somewhere else in 3 squares, missing in the 4th square. Never been able to make sense of it because I've always thought these were just print outs of one photo! OH wait- have one of the squares, the one with the man missing. Maybe you've seen it? Off thread, will get back on moderator, promise! This is too distracting!

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In the other shots on the same sheet, a man is bathing in the water, right around the area at the end of that dinghy.
The man standing on the left looks like he's doing something else in the water.:D
 
Had a few winter bedecked CW ladies on one of my Pinterest boards thought I would share -

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The muff on this one is a little strange, maybe someone who knows about fur could explain.

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I found out where that teeny-tiny waist dress came from, apparently it's a DOLL! I had the pin saved on my board and clicked the original link back which took me to an item at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The link is below with the story about the doll created in the 1940s! It's supposed to be reminiscent of an 1867 dress design.

http://www.metmuseum.org/collection...search/159250?rpp=60&pg=1&ft=1912+dolls&pos=2
 
Another way to keep warm: knitted under sleeves! I just discovered these: http://www.homefrontherald.com/the-...stitch-at-a-time-by-marie-waters-hoobery.html

Undersleeves were commonly used to protect lower sleeves of the dress from body oils and dirt (think modern grimy sleeve cuffs!) Normally they were made of white cotton. Dressy ones (obviously not worn when cleaning the house!) might be made of lace. However, the ones described in the above link are knitted wool, obviously meant for cold weather!

I'm having no luck posting images, but here are some (mostly fancy) under sleeves: archive.org/details/mma_undersleeves_102665

If the dress sleeves were snug at the opening (such as a bishop sleeve with buttoned cuffs), white cotton cuffs would be basted to the sleeve opening instead of using undersleeves.
 
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Another popular item in winter was the red flannel under-petticoat. Back in those days, "flannel" meant wool flannel. Red was popular because it was supposed to keep you warmer and healthier! It could be quilted for even more warmth. Often a 4-6" section at the top and the waistband were made from cotton to reduce bulk in the waist area. http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=3773.0

Wool stockings were also popular in cold weather. Those ladies who wore drawers (quite a few didn't) could make those and chemises out of wool flannel, too, although it sounds a bit itchy.
 
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After watching a reenactor at the 150th Battle of Cedar Creek run out of the Union camping area in a red union suit (the kind with the drop seat), I found out that the union suit was not developed until after the Civil War. The earliest ones were developed for women, per the wikipedia article, "Union Suit," and were patented in 1868. Hollywood also seems to ignore the later origins of this garment.
 
Another popular item in winter was the red flannel under-petticoat. Back in those days, "flannel" meant wool flannel. Red was popular because it was supposed to keep you warmer and healthier! It could be quilted for even more warmth. Often a 4-6" section at the top and the waistband were made from cotton to reduce bulk in the waist area. http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=3773.0

Wool stockings were also popular in cold weather. Those ladies who wore drawers (quite a few didn't) could make those and chemises out of wool flannel, too, although it sounds a bit itchy.

I'm really fascinated by your posts! Please keep them coming, it's very interesting. Mom was a seamstress, and she did a lot of sewing of things that are now either not longer known or considered peculiar. She thought so as well - we just didn't dress that way and she learned in the mission schools. They thought she was a deaf-mute - she refused to speak English and they wouldn't let her talk our language, so she didn't talk. They decided sewing was best for her to learn!
 
This can't be the finery of the common folk. What did a farmer's wife wear to keep warm in Winter?

This is a very striking woman.

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Yes, there was a disclaimer, swear, in the first post- these images are unashamedly those of people who could stand the damage to their wallets. Since photographs were also expensive, it'll be tougher to discover what a farmer' wife or tougher- what a factory worker wore daily to keep warm. A farmer's wife would have worn he version of finery to have a photo taken- something similar to what is here. Plus, since women made their own clothing- heck, and their own patterns frequently who is to say how we could identify rich/poor/middle class? Apart from obvious extremes?

I'm guessing a lot of cold weather items would be as Mary Dee has kindly included- photos coming in a bit. Arm and leg warmers- additions to the wardrobe. The ' sontag ', something I'd dismissed as frivolous turned out to be important, too- one, more common sense way to stay warm. Quite a few members were familiar with them- wore them as reenactors, pretty cool! OH and quilted petticoats!! Had some in a thread a couple years ago- must find them again, too.

I have some photos of relatives from the era- not poor women, not extraordinarily wealthy. Their outside, cold weather toggery looks pretty without being extreme? You know, seems to me something the majority of women would have worn- warm without making a point of dripping wealth?

This photo, have been wondering if it's one of he advertisements from the era? Once in awhile you come across them. The woman will be stunning, the outfit just faultless, the photographer so skilled- without being sure, the genre seems to match ads I've seen which are identified.
 
After watching a reenactor at the 150th Battle of Cedar Creek run out of the Union camping area in a red union suit (the kind with the drop seat), I found out that the union suit was not developed until after the Civil War. The earliest ones were developed for women, per the wikipedia article, "Union Suit," and were patented in 1868. Hollywood also seems to ignore the later origins of this garment.

Yes, well thank you so, so much for bringing the information here, Mary Dee- badly needed, much appreciated. The Union suit thing for example- had no clue. There's just always someone wearing one, anytime an era film is made.

We also have some of the 'arm warmers' now I know are sleeves, thank you, from the era- knitted, some flannel underclothes, a few other things. OH and somewhere ' socks/stockings' any idea how they kept those things up?

Sorry your photo posting ability is hampered ( Doesn't that drive you crazy? It would be the same here daily were it not for a husband who knows ' stuff' ), until you get it figured out, will work from what you tell us, if that is ok, find and source these garments?
 
This can't be the finery of the common folk. What did a farmer's wife wear to keep warm in Winter?

This is a very striking woman.

b-w-muff-cape-jpg.jpg

The lower income women of the time wore far more utilitarian clothing than the spectacular photos showcased here. Even the Godey's plates were considered high fashion, much like a modern Vogue and was something women used as a guide when deciding how to dress.

I took a snapshot from "Clothing Through American History - 1861-1899" that I use for clothing research. The photo is from a historical society and dated 1866. A little later than the Civil War but I'm sure this is spot on for pioneer dress in the wilds of Wisconsin in the era. I couldn't track it down online so hopefully my snapshot of it is clear enough.

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This photo is quite iconic and shows a woman with I assume her husband and children in a Union camp. The LOC dates it from 1862 and is of the 31st Pennsylvania near DC. She has a thick, roughhewn sweater, a snug possibly knitted bonnet, and an apron gathered up and a very simple skirt with probably petticoats/crinoline underneath. This was probably closer to what your average woman wore in the era. Something simple and very affordable that would last while engaging in chores.

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Yes but no one likes normal History! :giggle: The woman from ( rats which unit was it? Too early. ) is probably typical poor dear thing. Her face. " Why are you taking my photograph, there's a hole in my sweater? "That's one of 2, the other is before the place was organized for a more formal shot. There are heart-rending photos from Dicken's London you can't quite tear your eyes from. Flip side on the extreme wearing head to toe fur.

Also once did a thread on 2 different revolutions women had- reactionaries coming up with clothing which allowed more comfort for females. For some reason this movement also went out of it's way to ensure the clothing was extraordinarily plain. I think it was also supposed to be affordable hence appeal to the masses. It was extraordinarily ugly. Women were kind of given the chance to be comfortable but you had to give up all pretentions of feminine appeal. Mistake, if you ask me.

Dr. Mary Walker was a huge backer of the movement- the woman in the first photo, funnily enough is wearing the short skirt and pants the ' Dress Reform ' movement made a point of using.

This is less severe than a lot of her later clothing.
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This photo was in Archives years and years ago- not sure it's there anymore? Have noticed since they redid it an awful lot of items are un-findable.
 
Did not find sleeves which looked utilitarian- i.es warm although these served the purpose of saving sending one's gowns and garments to the washing tub. I remember JamesB filling us in on how dresses would be taken apart before having to wash an entire garment. Had a shot at looking for that thread- I am notoriously bad with information. He was speaking of bodices at the time. Maybe the sleeves Mary Dee is speaking of were so much used, since they were used for warmth, there's no sign of them? Saved various items from ' In The Swan's Shadow ', with credits from the original sites. Some are Pinterest.

If anyone wishes to delight your eyes and give them an early Victorian treat, it's a perfectly lovely site. Whomever is in charge is quite picky on details, too. I'm very serious when I say belonging here has given me great respect for staying on the straight and narrow. The S and N ( not to be mistaken for S and, well you know ) not being awfully narrow, tons of room in there. If we're to represent those who came before may as well not fool around. Also may have noticed I'm wrong frequently. Instead of editing those posts, better to keep them, right? Saves yet another correction somewhere. Our era covers a lot of topics on Ladies. You get the chance to be wrong almost daily. :giggle: ( That isn't snitty- you can't imagine how many times I've laughed out loud here saying " OH NO, really? )

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Had not heard of these until Yulie's post some days ago; running into them was very cool.

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These last 3 were from Pinterest- judging by the photos have to imagine they also came from the Met. originally. Posters on Pinterest frequently dispense with source.
 
Yes but no one likes normal History! :giggle: The woman from ( rats which unit was it? Too early. ) is probably typical poor dear thing. Her face. " Why are you taking my photograph, there's a hole in my sweater? "That's one of 2, the other is before the place was organized for a more formal shot. There are heart-rending photos from Dicken's London you can't quite tear your eyes from. Flip side on the extreme wearing head to toe fur.

Also once did a thread on 2 different revolutions women had- reactionaries coming up with clothing which allowed more comfort for females. For some reason this movement also went out of it's way to ensure the clothing was extraordinarily plain. I think it was also supposed to be affordable hence appeal to the masses. It was extraordinarily ugly. Women were kind of given the chance to be comfortable but you had to give up all pretentions of feminine appeal. Mistake, if you ask me.

Dr. Mary Walker was a huge backer of the movement- the woman in the first photo, funnily enough is wearing the short skirt and pants the ' Dress Reform ' movement made a point of using.

This is less severe than a lot of her later clothing.
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This photo was in Archives years and years ago- not sure it's there anymore? Have noticed since they redid it an awful lot of items are un-findable.

I agree, the fine frippery is much more fun to look at than the everyday work clothing of the ladies and honestly when Legion Para was curious I knew I had seen a few while doing research, but honestly the more simple clothing of the period for the ladies is very difficult to pin down. Later era clothing of regular folk is more common, especially into the 1880s, but in the infancy of photography it seems people always turned out in their very best clothes, mostly likely their Sunday best. The woman looked completely hassled by having her photo taken, as I'm sure she had to make the children look presentable. Her husband looks a little smug/proud standing there.

Love the reform wear! Reminds me of Vivandieres and their modified outfits.

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I've noticed some current patterns slightly resemble a few of the items posted here. Example: Fingerless mitts by Anne Hanson

And I made these a few years ago:

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Not much lace in mine, of course. If you pushed me to make lace with size 0 needles, I'd cry. But I'm inspired to make a modern lace pair now, despite the impracticality of having holes and the absence of fingers in my winter accessories.
 
I've noticed some current patterns slightly resemble a few of the items posted here. Example: Fingerless mitts by Anne Hanson

And I made these a few years ago:

Bunnyglovesandtable_010_medium2.jpg


Not much lace in mine, of course. If you pushed me to make lace with size 0 needles, I'd cry. But I'm inspired to make a modern lace pair now, despite the impracticality of having holes and the absence of fingers in my winter accessories.

I LOVE this style. I own a few pairs of various 'glittens' as they call them when you can flip a mitten cover over the fingerless portion. I use them a lot in the winter as its handy for commuting on the subway as it gives you access to smart phones/iPads and a good grip on books while keeping your hands warmish every time the subway doors open and blast in cold gusts.

I imagine such a style was useful to women of the era as well if they had chores outdoors like fetching water from the well or pump which had to be terribly frigid since it was metal.
 
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