ConfederateCanuck
First Sergeant
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Location
- Canad-istan
Is there a product that can help replicate this reddish brown, or something that will replicate the antique look of a 156 year old Enfi3ld whose finish was never messed with?
Well, after seeing just how much the 0000 took off i almost couldnt get to sleep that night. The only thought that saved me was "its not original anyhow". Well, lets see what the antiques guy can do for me. I wont touch any more of the finish until I consult him.Well I'm sure not trying to beat you up. I agree that the stock was already compromised by the varnish--not to mention the cracks. However, a gentler approach could probably have removed that varnish an left most of the linseed oil treatment underneath. These things collect tons of hand grime, powder and cap fouling and gun oil, too, so I think it's not a bad idea to clean them gently. Don't beat yourself up over this. Just manage your enthusiasm!
I sure don't think it hurts to remove an inappropriate finish like that--it's just a matter of how it gets removed. I think your instinct is correct that the shiny varnish was probably applied by the same person who did the epoxy glue job. I agree that you revealed some very interesting markings, and that's a bonus. To me, it gives the piece more of a sense of having been carried by that one individual soldier. So, like I said, don't be too hard on yourself. You're still going to love owning this piece. Just take away the lessons you have learned.Arguably, uncovering the LW and other markings makes it more collectible than a non-original varnish finish.
Well...yes on the "rope" method. We are now talking about a prudent way to move forward. CAUTION! Rope method!Finding the LW initials pin-pricked into the wood, was like revealing a personal history of the gun. You can feel the history when you pick it up. Its a powerful feeling, and that's why I am so hooked on collecting ACW weapons. Since it wasn't, nor would ever be a top tier collectable, I am OK with my "mistake". And it reinforces the reason I pose questions on the Forum...to learn from others before attempting any fixes. You will be happy to know I haven't made any attempts to clean up the metal parts...well, just the gentlest of rubbing with 0000 steel wool and oil to get rid of some rust that was crusted on the lock plate, without affecting the patina at all. I have no reason to touch the barrel. So basically, just get the stock structurally sound enough to go and safely test fire the gun. There are no structural flaws in any of the metal (no pitting in the barrel whatsoever) so I doubt she's gonna blow up, but I want to put 5-10 rounds through it (using the rope method to pull the trigger) before I trust it.
Any other method than the "very long rope" and hiding behind a tree when pulling the rope?Well...yes on the "rope" method. We are now talking about a prudent way to move forward. CAUTION! Rope method!
Wood;
KUDZIT with a soft rag and patience to remove varnish and paint. Small areas at the time. Kramers' Best antique restorer to get the color and oil back into the walnut.
Metal:
"Frontier Metal Cleaner". A metal ball with very wide strips of something.. It will NOT scratch or leave any marks.
Used with liberal amounts of Balistol. It won't run or harden if used as a 'storage wipe' {inside locks, etc}.
Been on the road for awhile so missed the conversation. Late advice isn't very good.
Brownells acraglass is the answer to your problem. it dries slow enough to penetrate deep and hold I have had it hold and the stock break next to it.With all respect and kindness to your friend, I think you should ignore his suggestions as to the conservation of your rifle stock. He is suggesting varnish as an adhesive, which is a bad idea. Varnish is a sealer and a top coat. It is not an adhesive and it certainly wouldn't be shock resistant in this application. What it WILL do very effectively is seal the surfaces inside your cracks, so that when they open again, no glue will be able to bind to them satisfactorily. Your main options at that point will be either restocking or permanently hanging on a wall.
All of that having been said, YES, you should definitely test your varnish IN CRACKS on scrap pieces of wood. Use a chisel and light hammer blows to start multiple cris-crossing cracks down grain lines. Then drip the varnish into the cracks and clamp as best you can. When you are satisfied that it has all dried and cured, hit the test piece sharply with a hammer several times right on the end grain. You will be simulating repeated recoils of the barrel into the back of the inlet. Let us know how that goes. Most importantly, if the joints fail as I expect them to fail, try to reglue them with something else at that point and repeat the test. You will see for yourself what I am trying to convey.
Acraglas was suggested in post #3, but it wasn't used.Brownells acraglass is the answer to your problem. it dries slow enough to penetrate deep and hold I have had it hold and the stock break next to it.