How to age repro parts?

ewmail15

Retired User
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Sep 14, 2017
Phil over at S&S Firearms has the 3rd type rear sight and brass band I need for my 1863 Merrill carbine. Maybe I'll find originals, but chances are slim to none. I already emailed Phil about how to age the sight and brass band (plus remove casting material), but no response. Please share your best recommendations on aging these repro parts.

Sit the sight in an acetone bath for a day, then a barrel brown solution several coatings and finally warm water with baking soda? No clue what to do with the brass. Thanks, Eric.
 
It wasn't a bad question. There are no bad questions. I am pretty sure why he asked it. You could pm the answer. Believe me the scum already know how to do this. The answers are already on the internet. Obviously the owner wants to blend in the repro parts with the rest of the weapon. They're a collector.
 
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To develop brass products it is possible in such a way - you need to anoint the surface of a brass product with sulfur ointment (I do not know if it is sold in America, such an ointment is treated with scabies on the skin). The surface will darken. Depending on the processing time and the number of times, you can achieve the desired color, right down to the dark patina.
 
Thanks Sacho. If/when I pick up the band from Phil at S&S I'll research your sulfur ointment.
 
To "age" the brass on my musket, I'd rub it down with a dirty patch. The sulfer residue in the dirty patch did the job.
 
I have made many parts for guns in my collection. I can make the part as original but the hardest part is ageing it to look and match the gun right. I have never felt like (scum) by trying to make my restoration look right. I applaud ewmail15 for trying to do a good job!!
 
And future owners will think the firearm is original in it's entirety.

Exactly!

I have made many parts for guns in my collection. I can make the part as original but the hardest part is ageing it to look and match the gun right. I have never felt like (scum) by trying to make my restoration look right. I applaud ewmail15 for trying to do a good job!!

That would be fine if full disclosure of the repro parts were made at the sale. The problem is that if the gun changes hands a couple of times from the owner who did the modifications, it will be taken as original if the seller "forgets" to disclose that info. The stuff that has sold on Gun Broker as used original guns (primarily C&B revolvers) is myriad.

I really dislike defarbing/antiquing because there are too many folks who take advantage of other folks in the used gun market. All of my Italian replicas still have the billboards, proofs, as close to LNIB condition so all will know it is not an ACW period gun. I know some go to great lengths to mark their defarbed guns so as not to disguise as originals, but if it looks real, many buyers will not pay attention to that. I agree that education is the key, but there are way too many folks out there with a lot of cash looking for a "great" deal, and come away disappointed when the truth be told.

I am off my soapbox.

Jim.
 
Well, what am I to do with my Merrill, if the horders out there buy up all the spare original parts? Repro parts available have no factory markings, at least not like original (no assy nbrs on repro sight or brass band). The crimes are for shops like Lodgewood that provide those absolutely idiotic defarb services. Even far worse is the entire reproduction weapon industry. I would never buy a reproduction weapon, nor would I ever sell any historic weapon that I've spent so many hours restoring.
 
I see no harm in publicly putting info out there. This stuff is not exactly a secret. I also see no problem with you doing what you need to with your Firearm.

I learned this stuff from the internet also. So no Big secrets are going to be revealed anyway.

For Brass try vinegar and salt solution soak. Regular cold blue soaks will patina brass also. They sell patina solutions for Brass all over the internet also. But of course only natural age can produce the real thing. Fake Patina is easily spotted over artificial. So no one will be fooled if they know what to look for,

For Browning the steel and even pitting it a little you can use plain Clorox Bleach. I have used this method to completely Brown barrels instead of buying Browning solution.

You heat the steel with a propane torch just hot enough for the clorox from a spray bottle to sizzle. Let cool, rinse with cold water and card lightly with fine steel wool (preferably the oil boiled from the steel wool first),between application and repeat as many times as you wish to get the desired look. Keep oil off the part too. It takes some time and work. But if done properly, great results can be obtained. Let the Clorox on longer before the rinse will even pit the surface if desired. I mean Hours longer, not minutes.

Again. I see no problem with posting this to help the guy.. Not a issue at all. Paranoia runs deep with some here. If someone buys a collector Firearm with repro parts, artificially aged, or naturally over time. They are obviously are out of their realm to make that purchase anyway, and need to take the time to gain the knowledge required for collector type purchases.

Knowledge is your best friend in these cases.
 
[QUOTE="Hughesgun, steel with a propane torch just hot enough for the clorox from a spray bottle to sizzle.

The only slight problem is the release of chlorine gas, sickness or possible death, But your barrel will be a nice brown.
 
Done it many times. Not dead or sick yet. And I am pretty old,LOL

Of course I guess I should have mentioned if it was not obvious. Do this outdoors with ventilation.. Same applies to casting lead. Of course you use precautions. Jeez.

Thought it was obvious you do not breath the stuff intentionally in the kitchen.

This is a well known old trick from old Gunsmiths that have reached,well,Old Age. Wow. You are the first one ever that has warned me of my imminent Demise though. Thank You. I owe you my life.

Sorry I omitted the part about using good old common sense. Fixed now.

Heres a thread on another Forum with pics that explains the process better than I can. I just used this one as I am a member there. Alot of others, and even some knifemakers use this process also.
http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/black-powder/52342-browning-barrel.html
 
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