Button Holes
Since there were no mandatory standards for buttonholes during the 1800's, the only way to know what stitch was used on a particular item, is to see that item. The fact that these uniforms were not made in large factories, further compounds the problem. Since the work was contracted out, even items of the same exact style and from the same depot could easily have different stitches used. But there were standard practices that tailors and seamstresses followed. I was lucky enough to be taught how to sew by my mother and my wife's grandmother was a professional seamstress all her life. Of course that doesn't take us back to the time of the civil war, but it does date to the late 1800's and turn of the century. The buttonhole stitch is the one that my wife's grandmother used, as taught to her by her mother. I've never made a close inspection of Civil War buttonholes, but the ones I remember seemed to use this stitch.
The WHIP STITCH is NOT an appropriate button hole stitch and would have only be used by someone that did not know how to sew, to repair an item when no other choice was available.
I think the proper thread for medium to heavy weight fabrics, would have still been the "Silk buttonhole twist", size 8/3 D, E or F. Any thread used needs to be waxed and pressed before use.
The Buttonhole Stitch
The
buttonhole stitch is the most appropriate stitch for sewing buttonholes. It is used to prevent fraying of the buttonhole. Since it has a small half-knot at the top of each stitch it is also less likely to unravel if the thread is broken, something that is likely to happen eventually, from use. To get the most strength, it is important to wax the thread before use. The waxing will strengthen the thread and prevent twisting while sewing the buttonhole.
You can sew the buttonhole stitch in any direction. Hold the thread along the top edge of the material, with the end pointing in the direction you are going to sew. Make a loop, with the top of the loop pointing upward. Inserting the needle through the loop, then into the fabric from the wrong side and then through the large loop left on the right side of the material. Tighten your stitch, keeping the purl on top by see-sawing the thread and using your fingernail. The additional stitches are created by arching the thread over the right side opening of the buttonhole in the direction you are sewing, then looping down and back around in the opposite direction your are sewing, through the loop at the top, then through the material from the wrong side about 1/16th of an inch from the last stitch, through the large loop on the right side and then tightening as before. Continue doing this all the way around the buttonhole until done.
Overcast & Cross your hand Stitch
The "
Cross your Hand" stitch is also a good stitch for buttonhole as is less likely to unravel than a overcast/whip stitch. It also prevents fraying as does the buttonhole stitch. It is basically a series of whip (overcast) stitches sewn in one direction and then returning with a series of whip (overcast) stitches in the opposite direction. Both directions of stitches go through the same hole, creating a "V". The "V" should be about 1/16th of an inch deep and 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch apart. This knot can be started and completed with a simple knot, starting from the wrong side. Since there is no knot at the top of each stitch, if you break both threads in the same spot they will start to unravel. For this reason, the buttonhole stitch is a better stitch for buttonholes. For the best strength, the thread should be waxed, as for the buttonhole stitch.
Blanket stitch is similar to the buttonhole stitch in finished appearance, but lacks the knot at the top. Is is basically a series of half hitches. This stitch can be started the same as the buttonhole stitch, except the needle enter from the right side of the material. As it exit the wrong side you bring the needle through the loop of thread at the top of the stitch, creating a half hitch. As with the "Cross your hand" stitch, there is no knot at the top and if the thread is broken, it will unravel. Again, the buttonhole stitch is a better stitch for buttonholes. For the best strength, the thread should be waxed, as for the buttonhole stitch.
Sewing on Bottons
To the best of my instructional ability--here's how to sew a button on a heavy coat of whatever era or quality of manufacture.
Get strong sewing thread--if you are looking to commercial sources rather than reenactor sources, get hand quilting thread and a stout needle. Thread the needle, double the thread, knot off and beeswax the length.
Get a match or a toothpick. Lay it on the place you wish to sew the button on. From the back, sew to front, around the match, through the button shank and then back down. The point is, you want some play between the coat and the button. Sew through about 5 times. Remove match, and wrap thread several times around the mass of threads you have, then sew to the back and knot off.[/left]
CivilWarTalk.com -
A free and friendly Civil War community. 
Sewing Button Holes and Buttons 
Linear Mode
