Ball Gown

idlewild · #1 03-03-2008, 05:21 PM

Ladies! I have some questions for you.

Ready? Okay, here we go!

We have the 150th anniversary of our fort my unit is based out of coming up this summer, I want to put together a nice ball gown for the event. (or even just a nicer day/tea dress, just something fancier than the work dress pattern I have).

Any suggestions on a pattern to use? I've been looking at some of the past pattern's dresses, what would be easiest? I want a nice dress that is suitable for a ball, but that I can still use for other activities.

Also, about a hoop skirt, how many bones? I know the more bones generally the fuller it will be, I don't want a huge skirt, I'd probably take out somebody or a table or a little kid! Haha! Would a 4 bone hoop skirt suffice?

I've got patterns for a chemise, drawers, and petticoats, and I'm saving to get a corset (pondered sewing that myself for awhile... but decided to pass, I'm not experienced enough as a seamstress to tackle that project. One day perhaps).

Okay, one last thing, I promise! What about fabric? I live out in the middle of nowhere and unfortunately the best place to buy fabric is the not-so-hot wally world *shudders* they have have a wonderful stock of polar fleece and modern flannel and cotton prints... and that's about it. I was thinking of a Taffeta fabric. Would that work? Any recommendations of a place I can order from? The cheeper the price per yard the better, I am trying to stay on some resemblance of a budget with this project.

Well, I think that's it! Thanks in advance for any replies!
~Emily

sarah1864 · #2 03-03-2008, 08:59 PM

www.fashionfabricsclub.com. Here is a website that looks very interesting. I haven't ordered from them though. Wally World has inferior fabric, don't buy from them unless you have too. I feel your pain, I live in a moderatly small town, and Wally World is the only supplier here, so I have to drive 40 or more miles to a better fabric store. The only taffeta that will do is 100% silk taffeta, and I don't think wally world carries that! It can be so expensive, but it will look fabulous if you can afford it. If your going for a ball gown or nice day dress, I would definetley get a 6 bone hope. Your dress will look all the more richer. The bones are adjustable, so you can collapse them down to a moderate circumference for a day dress. I do that very thing. One thing to remember is the kind of lighting that was used back then. That is the reasoning of some of the patterns and color of fabric, and also the shimmer of silk. You may be in a scenario like that in the future. You need to shine in candle/lamp light! The Heidi Marsh patterns have many choices for ball gowns and dinner dresses. You can use a dinner dress pattern for the ball gown, and trim it as fancy as your budget will allow. There are many pictures of beautiful ladies dressed for the evening, and all dresses were not off the shoulder. We lady reenactors must be frugal, and have our dresses do double duty, because we just can't afford a ball gown plus day/dinner/tea/camp dresses for the different occasions and scenarios. Just do your research, and I'm sure you will find the perfect fabric and pattern! Good luck!

blue_zouave · #3 03-04-2008, 02:03 AM

I second the use of Heidi Marsh patterns. McCalls and Simplicity are to be used only in extremis, with that fabric acquired at Wally World, at least for your outer wear!

As for your hoop, whatever size you choose, see if you can get one with ruffles over the bones, or wear a petticoat over your hoop to avoid VHL (visible hoop line!)

Zou (who knows way too much about ladies' clothes to be a soldier!)

idlewild · #4 03-04-2008, 01:46 PM

Thank you both very much for the advice!

Now, I'm just wondering, besides Taffeta, what other period fabrics could I use for a nice dress? I must admit that my knowledge of period fabrics beyond what was used for uniforms is rather limited!
I'm looking at what there is in the way of silk taffeta, would iridescent fabrics be period? I think it is but I am not sure.

southern_belle1861 · #5 03-04-2008, 08:07 PM

Hi Emily!

"Changeable" silk taffeta is period.

Very pretty all done up, actually.
Here is a thread on another forum about silk fabrics for the period: http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=783.0

As for being able to use this dress for other things, since you're going with silk, you could buy extra fabric and make a second bodice which can be basted lighly to the skirt. Its a very period thing for wool and silk dresses (cotton doesn't hold up well with this. It fades very quickly and will have a mismatched appearance even after the first wearing).

For your hoops, its not so much of how many bones, as how big it is around. The smallest you should go it 75" (bottom rung) and no bigger than 120" (if you are very tall. We're talking around 5'10-6') I personally, for a ball, would go no bigger than 105" with 2 or 3 petticoats. So stay within the 90"-105" and you should be fine.

Warning about Fashion Fabrics Club: While I have never ordered from them personally, I have heard many stories of ladies ordering something and them not having it in stock once it was ordered. It sells out fast. So if you see it and want it, BUY it!

If you do a search on this forum: www.thesewingacademy.org you should be able to find many threads on ballgowns.

Hope this helps!

Mark Wadsworth · #6 04-02-2008, 02:37 PM

I learned to stay away from sewing the ladies stuff. Much of the info is forced in to my head . My suggestion is to look before you jump. Some of th under pinnings are that can be found on the row are near the price of just the fabric and are well worth spending the extra $10-$15 to have them make them insted of spending a few evening making each piece yourself.
Some parts are easy to make yourself and others tend to turn in to a project that you end up kicking your self for even starting.
My suggestion for the dress is to look around before you commit to one.
Then again www.civilwarlady.com is worth the extra money.

southern_belle1861 · #7 04-08-2008, 11:08 AM

Actually...

For my underpinnings, once I have the pattern drafted (which takes probably 20 minutes), I can sew up a pair of drawers in 2 hours TOPS totally by hand, or in 30 minutes by machine. It takes 2 yards for mine, so thats about $4. A chemise of the same fabric can be made up in the same amount of time.